Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Barry, Chapman 1985.
Page Views: 194 total · 9/month
Shared By: Kevin Umbel on Apr 30, 2017
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Begin 10' left of Discombobulated on the left side of the blunt arete. A series of strenuous horizontal pulls is encountered right off the bat with good cams when needed. After the burly start get a good shake and aim for a shallow dihedral. Fun climbing thru this section. Once thru this, climb up and slightly left to a good stance. During these moves keep an eye out for a good piece of gear that'll be at your feet once you've gained this stance. At this stance you'll realize where the name of this route comes from. Gear behind this flake is simply decoration, if one was to fall above it your pro would rip this off sending a serious piece careening down to your belayer and conga line waiting to do the classic 11's. Instead follow the flake up and left to its end and locate a small pocket in white rock. Here a yellow tcu works good. I also imagine a blue or yellow totem would work well......or you can do what Andrew Barry prob did in 1985 and punch it up and slightly right on flat horizontals to a good 1" placement. Then proceed up to the top of cliff. Tree for anchor. This route is amazing.

Location

10' left of Discombobulated.

Protection

Single set of cams to 1", focus of smaller cams. Offsets are great down low, but not necessary. Stoppers. Several 2' slings.

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Douglas Chapman
Johnson City, TN
Douglas Chapman   Johnson City, TN
On the first ascent, the stoppers fell out from behind the flame before I got to 'em. Aug 21, 2018
Kevin Umbel
  5.11b
Kevin Umbel  
  5.11b
I don't doubt that one bit! Pretty bold move even putting gear behind that flake. Aug 22, 2018