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Routes in Snake Buttress

A Ketchum and Umbel Day T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Rider (aka Pocket Route) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bullet the New Sky S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dial 911 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Discombobulated S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dissonance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doug Reed Warmup S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legacy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mississippi Burning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New World Order S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Racist, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Razor Sharp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Lobster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
S.T.A.N.C. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent but Deadly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stolen Kisses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sugar Bubbas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Doug Reed 1991
Page Views: 5,669 total, 44/month
Shared By: Ladd on Apr 18, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This climb looks like it is just a tall climb from the ground. However, when you get on this bad-boy you quickly find out that there is a heinous crux between the second and third bolt. Fortunately you have a sweet no-hands rest (if you can battle away the spiders) in a pod at an obvious spot above the 3rd bolt. Pumpy climbing continues above on undercling with long reaches between sloping edges with bad feet. Finally keep your head, fight the pump and work over the last bulge.

Location

The easiest way to do it is by going down Honeymooners Ladders and hiking 5 minutes along the cliff eastwards.

Protection

8 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos

Pnelson

 
Pnelson    
 
Not as good as Legacy, but still super good. Nov 14, 2017
Jacob Sustrich
  5.11b
Jacob Sustrich  
  5.11b
Similar to Legacy but way better and just a bit harder. Very cool movement the whole way through, and a little spiciness on the run to the anchors. Jun 23, 2017