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Routes in J) Snake Buttress

A Ketchum and Umbel Day T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Adam Ant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Rider (aka Pocket Route) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bloodshot S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bullet the New Sky S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dial 911 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Discombobulated S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dissonance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doug Reed Warmup S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legacy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mississippi Burning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New World Order S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Racist, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Razor Sharp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Lobster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
S.T.A.N.C. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent but Deadly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stolen Kisses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sugar Bubbas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vulcan Block S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b A0
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Type: Trad, TR, 90 ft
FA: Ketchum and Umbel
Page Views: 194 total · 8/month
Shared By: BrianWS on Nov 13, 2016
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Basically a direct version of Rock Lobster - this line has an independent start, joins the shallow right facing weakness of Rock Lobster until the ledge, and follows the face directly below the Stolen Kisses anchors.

Instead of traversing right to the bolt and continuing up Rock Lobster proper, follow a series of iron oxide features and thin holds on the clean face just right of the mid-upper portion of the Stolen Kisses corner system.

This is a fun route, probably best toproped after leading Stolen Kisses. It has been done on lead, but would be a very bold R/X ordeal for sure. A great way to pass the time waiting for the hordes to clear off of Legacy.

Location

Starts just to the left of Rock Lobster, about 10 feet right of the small corner system (Adam Ant) next to Stolen Kisses.

Protection

The beginning section and shared section of Rock Lobster can be marginally protected, but there is mjnimal pro on the face above. A serious lead for certain.

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BrianWS
  5.11
BrianWS  
  5.11
There is a possibility that this route may actually be A Ketchum and Umbel Day, 10+R.

If I'm not mistaken, K&U Day climbs the face just to the right of the mid-to-upper portion of the Stolen Kisses crack system. I found the movement on this "unkown" route to be far more difficult than 5.10 -- definitely in the mid to hard 5.11 range. Also, unless I totally missed something, there was no gear from the ledge to just below the anchors, which would be a 40+ foot runout on extremely cruxy terrain - K&U has an R rating, but this looks like a definite X.

If someone who has climbed K&U Day can comment, it would be helpful to sort out the potential background of this "new" line. Nov 14, 2016
The route you're describing is basically Ketchum and Umbel day. It starts right of Adam Ant and left of Rock Lobster. There is gear between the ledge at mid to half height but you've got to be creative and also be on the actual line. Sounds like you may have been top roping a bit off to the right. I agree with you on the grade. Prob is more like 11b/c and could warrant the R/X in seriousness. None the less, a good line done in typical Don Ketchum style. Miss climbing with you, buddy. Thanks for the fire, it's still burning. Feb 6, 2017
BrianWS
  5.11
BrianWS  
  5.11
Thanks for the update! Route info has been changed accordingly - please let me know if there is anything you'd like to add.

Oh, and kudos on the ballsy lead! Feb 6, 2017

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