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> J) Snake Buttress
A Ketchum and Umbel Day
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in J) Snake Buttress
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A Ketchum and Umbel Day T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Adam Ant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Rider (aka Pocket Route) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bloodshot S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bullet the New Sky S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Dial 911 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Discombobulated S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dissonance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Doug Reed Warmup S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Legacy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mississippi Burning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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New World Order S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Racist, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Razor Sharp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rock Lobster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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S.T.A.N.C. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Silent but Deadly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Stolen Kisses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sugar Bubbas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vulcan Block S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b A0 |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, TR, 90 ft |
| FA: | Ketchum and Umbel |
| Page Views: | 187 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | BrianWS on Nov 13, 2016 |
| Admins: | Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones |
Your Star Rating:
Access Issue: Writing in chalk
Details
Please stop putting the dreaded "X", "Bees" or "Snake" on the rock faces. Please be smart and conscious of others.
Stop putting tick marks on the rock unless you are going to brush them off when you are done on the route. This goes against the ethic of the area and in the eyes of the locals is the same as graffiti. Rock climbing is an outdoor sport and guess what lives outdoors? That's right, bees, wasps, snakes, and even bears! We all know they exist, no reason to write it on the walls.
Stop putting tick marks on the rock unless you are going to brush them off when you are done on the route. This goes against the ethic of the area and in the eyes of the locals is the same as graffiti. Rock climbing is an outdoor sport and guess what lives outdoors? That's right, bees, wasps, snakes, and even bears! We all know they exist, no reason to write it on the walls.
Description
Basically a direct version of Rock Lobster - this line has an independent start, joins the shallow right facing weakness of Rock Lobster until the ledge, and follows the face directly below the Stolen Kisses anchors.
Instead of traversing right to the bolt and continuing up Rock Lobster proper, follow a series of iron oxide features and thin holds on the clean face just right of the mid-upper portion of the Stolen Kisses corner system.
This is a fun route, probably best toproped after leading Stolen Kisses. It has been done on lead, but would be a very bold R/X ordeal for sure. A great way to pass the time waiting for the hordes to clear off of Legacy.
Instead of traversing right to the bolt and continuing up Rock Lobster proper, follow a series of iron oxide features and thin holds on the clean face just right of the mid-upper portion of the Stolen Kisses corner system.
This is a fun route, probably best toproped after leading Stolen Kisses. It has been done on lead, but would be a very bold R/X ordeal for sure. A great way to pass the time waiting for the hordes to clear off of Legacy.
Photos
- No Photos -
If I'm not mistaken, K&U Day climbs the face just to the right of the mid-to-upper portion of the Stolen Kisses crack system. I found the movement on this "unkown" route to be far more difficult than 5.10 -- definitely in the mid to hard 5.11 range. Also, unless I totally missed something, there was no gear from the ledge to just below the anchors, which would be a 40+ foot runout on extremely cruxy terrain - K&U has an R rating, but this looks like a definite X.
If someone who has climbed K&U Day can comment, it would be helpful to sort out the potential background of this "new" line. Nov 14, 2016
Oh, and kudos on the ballsy lead! Feb 6, 2017