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Routes in Snake Buttress

A Ketchum and Umbel Day T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Rider (aka Pocket Route) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bullet the New Sky S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dial 911 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Discombobulated S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dissonance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doug Reed Warmup S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Legacy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mississippi Burning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New World Order S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Racist, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Razor Sharp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Lobster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
S.T.A.N.C. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent but Deadly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stolen Kisses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sugar Bubbas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Eric Horst, Rick Thompson, Doug Reed, Bob D'Antonio 1989
Page Views: 5,432 total, 52/month
Shared By: Will Hinckley on May 2, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

One of the NRG's best 5.12 aretes, with a fairly short crux compared to many other Endless routes of the grade. Start in a sort of crack feature on the left side of the arete before doing a weird move up onto a small ledge (the original line started to the right; not many people do this start). The crux involves a very crimpy and sequential right traverse to and around the corner of the arete. After this, lots of 5.11 climbing to the anchor.

Location

First bolted arete about 75 feet right of Legacy and Discombobulated. Immediately to the right of Rock Lobster.

Protection

8 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos

Overrated and overgraded. 12b grade is legit for the old start, which felt like a forced line. The bolts have been moved to the easier start (left of arete) for safety reasons. Still a great line, but not 12b and not an ultra classic by endless wall standards, IMAO. Sep 13, 2017