PRINT: Rock Climb Bullet the New Sky, The New River Gorge Region

Bullet the New Sky

5.12a/b, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 3.8 from 158 votes
FA: Eric Horst, Rick Thompson, Doug Reed, Bob D'Antonio 1989
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

One of the NRG's best 5.12 aretes, with a fairly short crux compared to many other Endless routes of the grade. Start in a sort of crack feature on the left side of the arete before doing a weird move up onto a small ledge (the original line started to the right; not many people do this start). The crux involves a very crimpy and sequential right traverse to and around the corner of the arete. After this, lots of 5.11 climbing to the anchor.

Location

First bolted arete about 75 feet right of Legacy and Discombobulated. Immediately to the right of Rock Lobster.

Protection

8 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Brad L on the send

Bullet the new sky!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matthew Carpenter

Overrated and overgraded. 12b grade is legit for the old start, which felt like a forced line. The bolts have been moved to the easier start (left of arete) for safety reasons. Still a great line, but not 12b and not an ultra classic by endless wall standards, IMAO. Sep 13, 2017

Ryan McDermott
Pittsburgh, PA

5.12a/b

Doable for kids at 5’0” Nov 28, 2020

Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC

Nice! Good to know. I often felt like the typical crux of this route was a lot easier the shorter you were. Nov 30, 2020

Phil ingmyself
Pennsyl-tucky

Anyone know if the origin for the name came from the classic arete climb in Penitente Canyon (CO)? (Bullet the Blue Sky 12c/d) Apr 8, 2022

Pat Goodman
Fayetteville, WV

Phil ingmyself :)...From Thompson's 1997 edition of New River Rock: "Big brother of Penitente Canyon's famed Bullet the Blue Sky, which was ironically also established by D' Antonio." Apr 8, 2022