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Routes in J) Snake Buttress

A Ketchum and Umbel Day T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Adam Ant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Rider (aka Pocket Route) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bloodshot S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bullet the New Sky S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dial 911 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Discombobulated S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dissonance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doug Reed Warmup S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legacy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mississippi Burning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New World Order S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Racist, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Razor Sharp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Lobster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
S.T.A.N.C. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent but Deadly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stolen Kisses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sugar Bubbas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vulcan Block S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b A0
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Type: Sport, Aid, 90 ft
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 149 total · 29/month
Shared By: AndyJohnson on Jan 23, 2018
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description [Suggest Change]

A 4-star climb from the first bolt on.

Stick clip the first bolt and pull on your rope past the blank roof up to good starting holds near the first bolt. Trend up and right past some long reaches, small holds, and one slightly dynamic pop move to a slot. There are a few rest stances before the roof.

A nice, sideways, mini-dyno above the roof leads to a tricky corner that requires good body positioning. Another good stance provides a rest before the last thin face sequence.

Climb past the last 2 bolts on easy, but probably dirty rock to the final sequence: run-out, dirty, sloping fat rolls make for an exciting finish. There is a sequence through the last 10 feet that is not too hard, but the onsight attempt will make you pucker.

Location [Suggest Change]

On the Pocket Route / New World Order section of Snake Buttress, start just right of the tree. Pocket Route starts 2 routes to climber's left, New World order is 3 routes to climber's right.

Protection [Suggest Change]

9 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.


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