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Routes in J) Snake Buttress
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A Ketchum and Umbel Day T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Adam Ant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Black Rider (aka Pocket Route) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bloodshot S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Bullet the New Sky S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Confirmation S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Dial 911 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Discombobulated S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Dissonance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Doug Reed Warmup S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Legacy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mississippi Learning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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New World Order S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a |
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Razor Sharp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Rock Lobster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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S.T.A.N.C. T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Silent but Deadly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Smelt it, Dealt it S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Stolen Kisses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sugar Bubbas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Vulcan Block S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b A0 |
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| Type: | Sport, Aid, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 38.05474, -81.05704 |
| FA: | Doug Reed 1992 |
| Page Views: | 1,745 total · 18/month |
| Shared By: | AndyJohnson on Jan 23, 2018 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS.
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
A 4-star climb from the first bolt on.
Stick clip the first bolt and pull on your rope past the blank roof up to good starting holds near the first bolt. Trend up and right past some long reaches, small holds, and one slightly dynamic pop move to a slot. There are a few rest stances before the roof.
A nice, sideways, mini-dyno above the roof leads to a tricky corner that requires good body positioning. Another good stance provides a rest before the last thin face sequence.
Climb past the last 2 bolts on easy, but probably dirty rock to the final sequence: run-out, dirty, sloping fat rolls make for an exciting finish. There is a sequence through the last 10 feet that is not too hard, but the onsight attempt will make you pucker.
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