Type: Sport, Aid, 90 ft
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 306 total · 28/month
Shared By: AndyJohnson on Jan 23, 2018
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

A 4-star climb from the first bolt on.

Stick clip the first bolt and pull on your rope past the blank roof up to good starting holds near the first bolt. Trend up and right past some long reaches, small holds, and one slightly dynamic pop move to a slot. There are a few rest stances before the roof.

A nice, sideways, mini-dyno above the roof leads to a tricky corner that requires good body positioning. Another good stance provides a rest before the last thin face sequence.

Climb past the last 2 bolts on easy, but probably dirty rock to the final sequence: run-out, dirty, sloping fat rolls make for an exciting finish. There is a sequence through the last 10 feet that is not too hard, but the onsight attempt will make you pucker.

Location

On the Pocket Route / New World Order section of Snake Buttress, start just right of the tree. Pocket Route starts 2 routes to climber's left, New World order is 3 routes to climber's right.

Protection

9 bolts, 2-bolt anchor.

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