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Routes in J) Snake Buttress

A Ketchum and Umbel Day T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Adam Ant T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black Rider (aka Pocket Route) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bloodshot S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bullet the New Sky S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dial 911 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Discombobulated S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dissonance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doug Reed Warmup S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legacy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mississippi Burning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New World Order S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Racist, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Razor Sharp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Lobster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
S.T.A.N.C. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent but Deadly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stolen Kisses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sugar Bubbas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vulcan Block S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b A0
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Reed 1994
Page Views: 138 total · 20/month
Shared By: Jonathan Metzman on Apr 24, 2018
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

A worthy line that does not see enough ascents as its overshadowed by its classic neighbor, Black Rider. Despite contrary belief, you do not need to be intoxicated with bloodshot eyes to lack the judgement to get on this. Although the face is seemingly lichen-filled and dull, the line is surprisingly clean. What the climb lacks in glimmer and shine it makes up for in yee-haw and yippee-ki-yay. The climbing features powerful and technical movement that is probably easier if you’re taller, but also doable for the shorter powerhouse climber.

Share the same start as Black Rider, but trend left to move under the first bolt. The difficulties begin immediately from the first to second bolt, which require either a massive static reach or a precise dynamic power lunge. Squirm or smear your way up to a no-hands rest under the small roof. Clip the third bolt from a left-hand undercling, and then immediately enter the first crux involving power crimping getting over the small roof. After this sequence, clip the fourth bolt, and enjoy easier climbing to an interesting, mediocre rest at the fifth bolt. After the rest, the second crux there ensues with very techy, powerful, precise movement on rad pinches, pockets, and slots. This crux is highlight of the route, but also can be pretty show stopper, until you unlock the betas. Clip the sixth bolt and enjoy sustained, pumpy 5.11+ to the anchors. At the last bolt your efforts are rewarded with a surprise (not anymore if you’re reading this) iron-band hueco imported for your pleasure from the RRG.

This wall is sunny in the morning and shady in the afternoon.

Location

To the right of S.T.A.N.C. and the to the left of Black Rider (Pocket Route)

Protection

8 bolts

Photos

No need to start on Pocket. The plumb line is actually easier, and is, y’know, the plumb line... 8 hours ago

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