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Routes in Snake Buttress

A Ketchum and Umbel Day T,TR 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Black Rider (aka Pocket Route) S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Bullet the New Sky S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Dial 911 S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Discombobulated S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dissonance S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Doug Reed Warmup S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Legacy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mississippi Burning S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
New World Order S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Racist, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Razor Sharp T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rock Lobster T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
S.T.A.N.C. T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Silent but Deadly S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Stolen Kisses T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sugar Bubbas S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Eric Horst 1989
Page Views: 3,431 total, 33/month
Shared By: Will Hinckley on May 2, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Pull the overhanging start to the left of arete and climb the engaging face above.

Location

The next arete past Bullet the New Sky. Consider stick clipping the first bolt.

Protection

7 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
Brad Leneis
  5.12a
Brad Leneis  
  5.12a
A bit easier with the starting cheater stack on the right (where it was this past weekend) than on the left (where it used to be, if memory serves). Nov 27, 2017
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
 
You said it buddy, "...this is sport climbing at the New so maybe we should all suck it up...". May 6, 2016
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  5.12a/b
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  5.12a/b
Chris I wasn't aware of the issues around permadraws - my apologies.

Stick clipping isn't an option on the third bolt to my knowledge.

It seems like the best solution is to climb the Doug Reed warmup to the right and place a longer draw when being lowered.

I still think the bolt is in a sketchy spot - that was my only real point. Others are free to disagree and this is sport climbing at the New so maybe we should all suck it up. Still though I would like to encourage people, even veterans like Mr. Horst to consider where people are likely to clip from if they are going to bolt a route. May 6, 2016
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
 
Yes, anything hanging on the rock for longer than 24 hours is technically not legal. Whoever leaves their draws on a route for longer than 24 hours takes the risk of having them poached by another climber or taken down by NPS, and this could cause more issues for the local climbing coalition with their dealings with NPS. Oct 23, 2015
Rui Ferreira
Boulder, CO
  5.12b
Rui Ferreira   Boulder, CO
  5.12b
"First off, leaving any protection in the gorge for more than 24 hours is illegal without consent from NPS"

Does this apply to "project" quickdraws? The ones that have been hanging on Quinsana Plus for weeks come to mind. Oct 23, 2015
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
 
First off, leaving any protection in the gorge for more than 24 hours is illegal without consent from NPS. Secondly this route was rebolted by NRAC using glue-ins and placing a fixed draw on any of the bolts is going to become one more thing that NRAC would have to maintain because then people would start lowering off of it if they couldn't do the move.

Sport climbing at the gorge almost always requires a stick clip, and without one of those you run into issues like you have. Either onsight it hanging the draws, (which I've seen many people do), or bolt to bolt it with a stick clip in hand. Otherwise do as Drew said and just climb it. I've seen people fall while trying to clip that bolt and with an attentive belayer you will be fine. Oct 21, 2015
Drew Hayes
Charlotte, NC
 
Drew Hayes   Charlotte, NC
 
Man up, grab a small hold, stand tall on an OK foot, and clip that bitch. The second time I got on it, I wised up and had a tall person put the draws in for me.

This is still the best route I've been on so far at Endless. Maybe at the New. Maybe ever. Oct 20, 2015
bryan brown
the 'ham, nc
  5.12-
bryan brown   the 'ham, nc
  5.12-
Colin may have a point, noting that Eric Horst's bolt jobs are notoriously... Eric Horst-y. I don't recall a huge issue with this bolt's placement, though I'd be a touch worried about placing a permadraw there as folks may do exactly as mentioned- grab it, which always makes things a bit scary.

Bolting issues aside, this has to be one of, if not THE, best face climb at the grade in the gorge. Anyone that's interested really should give it a burn, and strap in for a wild ride. Oct 20, 2015
Colin R
Ottawa, ON
  5.12a/b
Colin R   Ottawa, ON
  5.12a/b
A quick complaint before I gush:

I was not impressed with Mr. Horst's bolt-job on this line (I have heard through the grape vine that he did bolt it in a less than ideal way) - nothing personal against him. The third bolt is hard to clip if you are hanging the draws even though there is a good hold lower and if you fall there before clipping (even before you pull slack) you can land on your belayer or deck - I nearly did. I suggest fixing this bolt lower or placing a permadraw there which you can at least grab. Probably the latter since it's a ring bolt. If you lead the 11c to the right you can probably swing around the arĂȘte and clip a long draw to it.

Apart from that it's a fantastic line! Man are the moves cool and super sequential. Screw up one foot placement or hand sequence or lose your focus and you are coming off this thing. Should be a mandatory climb for the grade there. Apr 26, 2015