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Areas in Endless Wall

A) Fern Point 7 / 11 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
B) Party Buttress 10 / 16 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
C) Fern Cirque 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
D) Idol Point 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
E) Kaymoor Slabs 5 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
F) Flash Point Area 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
G) Diamond Point 12 / 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
H) Hellbound Area 4 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
I) Honeymooner's Area 11 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
J) Snake Buttress 6 / 14 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 20
K) Scream Seam Area 6 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
L) Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress 9 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
M) Fantasy Area 9 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
N) The Undeserved Area 7 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
O) Kline Wall 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
P) Jacob's Ladder Area 3 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Q) The Mungolian Wall 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
R) The Cirque 1 / 24 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 25
S) BBQ Babies Cave 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is the crown jewel of all the crags on the New River. With nearly 3 miles of unbroken cliff (and nearly six if you include greater Endless Wall from Ambassador to Keeney's Buttress), breathtaking views, and as much exposure as you can get on a single pitch off the ground, it's easy to spend several days in a row here, or a season, or a lifetime. There is everything from monster 100 foot bolted moderates, to classic gear lines, to modern sport and trad testpieces that require you to be a mutant to climb them.  Spring and Fall are the best seasons here, but it's possible to get great conditions at the Cirque in January, or Aesthetica area during August.  The only thing this place lacks is an abundance of easy bolted lines-- to get the most out of Endless, you'll want to be solid on 5.10 trad and 5.11+ sport.

Since the Endless Wall Trail has been voted #1 hiking trail in a U.S. national park, it's been getting a lot of traffic. With this traffic comes more issues, especially with parking. If you park along the road and your tires are touching the asphalt then you will get towed! Get there early to get a spot in one of the lots, and carpool if possible.

Getting There

Take second right after bridge (heading north). Park at Fern Point trail head (bottom of hill about 1 mi. from road) or up at the Nuttall parking at the top of the hill past the Fern parking.

If you park at the Fern Point trail head you will hike in through the hemlock forest and cross a bridge (cut off right from the trail just before this bridge to access lower sections of Fern Buttress), go up hill and then come to a sign for climber's access on your right. Take that trail on the right and go down the ladders. This is Fern Point. Head left instead of right, follow the trail and the scenic views to reach the Honeymooner's ladder.

From the Nuttall parking you will walk through the hemlock forest, cross the bridge, and then head up a hill. Eventually you will see a sign on the left side of the trail for climbing access. Take that trail and down the ladders to go to the Cirque.

Roughly equidistant between the Fern Point and Cirque ladders is another set-- Honeymooner's ladders. Going down this set of ladders puts you dead in the middle (and arguably the most quality section) of Endless Wall at Snake Buttress.

As you get more familiar with the approaches to Endless, you'll find that there are also a few convenient rappel stations that facilitate getting to a few areas a bit quicker. They are mentioned in more detail (with pictures) in the Williams guidebook, and are generally easy to find off of the approach trail.

233 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Endless Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 181
Fantasy
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 94
Fool Effect
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 98
The Upheaval
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 139
Black and Tan
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 85
Remission
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 89
Party in My Mind
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 188
Strike A Scowl
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 135
Exoduster
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 57
Mellifluous
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 217
Legacy
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 123
Discombobulated
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 144
Aesthetica
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 76
Freaky Stylee
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 67
Bullet the New Sky
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 55
New World Order
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fantasy M) Fantasy Area
 181
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Fool Effect E) Kaymoor Slabs
 94
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Upheaval E) Kaymoor Slabs
 98
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Black and Tan M) Fantasy Area
 139
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Remission G) Diamond Point
 85
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Party in My Mind B) Party Buttress
 89
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Strike A Scowl G) Diamond Point
 188
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Exoduster B) Party Buttress
 135
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Mellifluous A) Fern Point
 57
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Legacy J) Snake Buttress
 217
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Discombobulated J) Snake Buttress
 123
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Aesthetica M) Fantasy Area
 144
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Freaky Stylee B) Party Buttress
 76
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bullet the New Sky J) Snake Buttress
 67
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
New World Order J) Snake Buttress
 55
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Endless Wall »

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Endless wall is choss! It's not as big as they say it is, the rock is soft, the grades are soft, the climbs lack any sort thought-provoking movement. The routes are ugly and the rock is unaesthetic. The weather is gross and it's always crowded. Hikers throw their garbage down at you, and the locals...well they're a bunch of gumbyheaded ninnywaggers. Go to the Red instead, that's the only good spot in the whole region! Apr 3, 2015
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
I completely and wholeheartedly support this statement! Thank you Matt for saying publicly what everyone knows to be true. The last sentence is particularly pertinent, and is the most solid advice I have ever heard and should be adhered to strictly. Apr 3, 2015
Zach Buecker
Knoxville, TN
Zach Buecker   Knoxville, TN
If the lots are full do not park on the shoulder of Lansing-Edmond Rd. Last Saturday cars were being towed. Park at another lot or see Matt's comment above... Oct 27, 2015
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
Yeah I was out there watching it, I think it was mostly hikers. You can park anywhere as long as your tires are not on the asphalt. Oct 27, 2015
Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
Why do I get the impression you guys are just saying that so you'll have the wall to yourselves? :p May 28, 2016

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