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Elevation: 1,891 ft 576 m
GPS: 38.05508, -81.05767
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 682,077 total · 3,273/month
Shared By: Chris Whisenhunt on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson
Warning Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This is the crown jewel of all the crags on the New River. With nearly 3 miles of unbroken cliff (and nearly six if you include greater Endless Wall from Ambassador to Keeney's Buttress), breathtaking views, and as much exposure as you can get on a single pitch off the ground, it's easy to spend several days in a row here, or a season, or a lifetime. There is everything from glorious 100 foot bolted moderates to classic gear lines to modern sport and trad testpieces requiring mutant strength.  Spring and Fall are the best seasons here, but it's possible to get great conditions at the Cirque in January, or Aesthetica area during August.  The only thing this place lacks is an abundance of easy bolted lines-- to get the most out of Endless, you'll want to be solid on 5.10 trad and 5.11+ sport.

Since the Endless Wall Trail has been voted #1 hiking trail in a U.S. national park, it's been getting a lot of traffic. With this traffic come more issues, especially with parking. If you park along the road and your tires are touching the asphalt then you will get towed! Get there early to get a spot in one of the lots, and carpool if possible.

Getting There Suggest change

Take second right after bridge (heading north). Park at Fern Point trail head (bottom of hill about 1 mi. from road) or up at the Nuttall parking at the top of the hill past the Fern parking.

If you park at the Fern Point trail head you will hike in through the hemlock forest and cross a bridge (cut off right from the trail just before this bridge to access lower sections of Fern Buttress), go up hill and then come to a sign for climber's access on your right. Take that trail on the right and go down the ladders. This is Fern Point. Head left instead of right, follow the trail and the scenic views to reach the Honeymooner's ladder.

From the Nuttall parking you will walk through the hemlock forest, cross the bridge, and then head up a hill. Eventually you will see a sign on the left side of the trail for climbing access. Take that trail and down the ladders to go to the Cirque.

Roughly equidistant between the Fern Point and Cirque ladders is another set-- Honeymooner's ladders. Going down this set of ladders puts you dead in the middle (and arguably the most quality section) of Endless Wall at Snake Buttress.

As you get more familiar with the approaches to Endless, you'll find that there are also a few convenient rappel stations that facilitate getting to a few areas a bit quicker. They are mentioned in more detail (with pictures) in the Williams guidebook, and are generally easy to find off of the approach trail.

283 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Endless Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 316
Fantasy
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 177
Fool Effect
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 228
Black and Tan
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 319
Strike A Scowl
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 155
Remission
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 168
Party in My Mind
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 112
Mellifluus
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 465
Legacy
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 260
Discombobulated
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 78
Leave it to Jesus
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 280
Aesthetica
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 156
Freaky Stylee
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 147
Bullet the New Sky
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 116
New World Order
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 85
Finders Keepers
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fantasy M) Fantasy Area
 316
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Fool Effect E) Kaymoor Slabs
 177
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Black and Tan M) Fantasy Area
 228
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Strike A Scowl G) Diamond Point
 319
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Remission G) Diamond Point
 155
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Party in My Mind B) Party Buttress
 168
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Mellifluus A) Fern Point
 112
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Legacy J) Snake Buttress
 465
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Discombobulated J) Snake Buttress
 260
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Leave it to Jesus G) Diamond Point
 78
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Aesthetica M) Fantasy Area
 280
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Freaky Stylee B) Party Buttress
 156
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bullet the New Sky J) Snake Buttress
 147
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
New World Order J) Snake Buttress
 116
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Finders Keepers R) The Cirque
 85
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
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