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Areas in Endless Wall

BBQ Babies Cave 0 / 0 / 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Cirque, The 1 / 24 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 25
Diamond Point 11 / 6 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 17
Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress 9 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 11
Fantasy Area 9 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Fern Cirque 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Fern Point 7 / 11 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 18
Flash Point Area 3 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Hellbound Area 3 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 8
Honeymooner's Area 11 / 13 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 24
Idol Point 2 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Jacob's Ladder Area 3 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Kaymoor Slabs 5 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 14
Kline Wall 3 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Mungolian Wall, The 1 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Party Buttress 10 / 16 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 26
Scream Seam Area 5 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 7
Snake Buttress 5 / 13 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 18
Undeserved Area, The 7 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Elevation: 1,891 ft
GPS: 38.055, -81.058 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 203,476 total · 1,540/month
Shared By: Chris Whisenhunt on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

Description

This is the crown jewel of all the crags on the New River. With almost 5 miles of unbroken cliff, breathtaking views, and as much exposure as you can get on a single pitch off the ground, it's easy to spend several days in a row here. There is everything from monster 100 foot bolted moderates to classic gear lines to downright nasty beasts that require you to be a mutant to climb them. Routes range from 50 to over 100 feet in length. Sun and shade can be found, along with a few select rainy day options- most of those require considerable skill, however.

Since the Endless Wall Trail has been voted number 1 hiking trail in a national park in the US it's getting a lot of traffic. With this traffic comes more issues. Especially parking. If you park along the road and your tires are touching the asphalt then you will get towed! Get there early to get a spot in one of the lots and carpool if possible.
Writing in chalk Details

Getting There

Take second right after bridge (heading north). Park at Fern Point trail head (bottom of hill about 1 mi. from road) or up at the Nuttall parking at the top of the hill past the Fern parking.

If you park at the Fern Point trail head you will hike in through the hemlock forest and cross a bridge (fern creek), go up hill and then come to a sign for climber's access on your right. Take that trail on the right and go down the ladders. This is Fern Point. Head left instead of right, follow the trail and the scenic views to reach the Honeymooner's ladder.

From the Nuttall parking you will walk through the hemlock forest, cross the bridge (fern creek), and then head up a hill. Eventually you will see a sign on the left side of the trail for climbing access. Take that trail and down the ladders to go to the Cirque.

Between the Fern Point and Cirque ladders is another set, the Honeymooner's ladders. Going down this set of ladders puts you dead in the middle of Endless wall at Snake Buttress.

There are also a few convenient rappel stations that facilitate getting to a few areas a bit quicker. They are marked below and they are mentioned in more detail (with pictures) in the Williams guidebook.

From Fern Point to the Cirque is below. Climbers left to right.
Fern Point (ladder)
Fern Point - Party Buttress
Fern Cirque
Idol Point
Kaymoor Slabs
Flash Point Area
Diamond Point (rappel station)
Hellbound Area
Snake Buttress (ladder)
Scream Seam Area
Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress
Fantasy Area (rappel station just above the route Fantasy. 60 works barely, 70m preferred)
The Undeserved Area
Kline Wall
Jacob's Ladder Area
The Mungolian Wall
Cirque (ladder)

227 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Endless Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Fool Effect
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
The Upheaval
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Black and Tan
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Remission
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party in My Mind
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Strike A Scowl
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exoduster
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Mellifluous
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Legacy
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Discombobulated
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aesthetica
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freaky Stylee
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Bullet the New Sky
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
New World Order
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fantasy Fantasy Area 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Fool Effect Kaymoor Slabs 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Upheaval Kaymoor Slabs 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Black and Tan Fantasy Area 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Remission Diamond Point 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Party in My Mind Party Buttress 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Strike A Scowl Diamond Point 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Exoduster Party Buttress 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Mellifluous Fern Point 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Legacy Snake Buttress 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Discombobulated Snake Buttress 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Aesthetica Fantasy Area 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Freaky Stylee Party Buttress 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bullet the New Sky Snake Buttress 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
New World Order Snake Buttress 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Endless Wall »

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Ted Pinson
Chicago, IL
Ted Pinson   Chicago, IL
Why do I get the impression you guys are just saying that so you'll have the wall to yourselves? :p May 28, 2016
Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
Yeah I was out there watching it, I think it was mostly hikers. You can park anywhere as long as your tires are not on the asphalt. Oct 27, 2015
Zach Buecker
Knoxville, TN
Zach Buecker   Knoxville, TN
If the lots are full do not park on the shoulder of Lansing-Edmond Rd. Last Saturday cars were being towed. Park at another lot or see Matt's comment above... Oct 27, 2015
Jake Jones
Richmond, VA
Jake Jones   Richmond, VA  
I completely and wholeheartedly support this statement! Thank you Matt for saying publicly what everyone knows to be true. The last sentence is particularly pertinent, and is the most solid advice I have ever heard and should be adhered to strictly. Apr 3, 2015
Endless wall is choss! It's not as big as they say it is, the rock is soft, the grades are soft, the climbs lack any sort thought-provoking movement. The routes are ugly and the rock is unaesthetic. The weather is gross and it's always crowded. Hikers throw their garbage down at you, and the locals...well they're a bunch of gumbyheaded ninnywaggers. Go to the Red instead, that's the only good spot in the whole region! Apr 3, 2015

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