Elevation: 1,891 ft
GPS: 38.055, -81.058 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 402,581 total · 2,497/month
Shared By: Chris Whisenhunt on Apr 10, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details
Access Issue: COVID 19 UPDATE: PLEASE FOLLOW THE ADVICE OF THE ACCESS FUND, AMERICAN ALPINE CLUB, NRAC, AND OTHERS BY NOT COMING TO THE NRG DURING THIS HEALTH CRISIS Details

Description

This is the crown jewel of all the crags on the New River. With nearly 3 miles of unbroken cliff (and nearly six if you include greater Endless Wall from Ambassador to Keeney's Buttress), breathtaking views, and as much exposure as you can get on a single pitch off the ground, it's easy to spend several days in a row here, or a season, or a lifetime. There is everything from monster 100 foot bolted moderates, to classic gear lines, to modern sport and trad testpieces that require you to be a mutant to climb them.  Spring and Fall are the best seasons here, but it's possible to get great conditions at the Cirque in January, or Aesthetica area during August.  The only thing this place lacks is an abundance of easy bolted lines-- to get the most out of Endless, you'll want to be solid on 5.10 trad and 5.11+ sport.

Since the Endless Wall Trail has been voted #1 hiking trail in a U.S. national park, it's been getting a lot of traffic. With this traffic comes more issues, especially with parking. If you park along the road and your tires are touching the asphalt then you will get towed! Get there early to get a spot in one of the lots, and carpool if possible.

Getting There

Take second right after bridge (heading north). Park at Fern Point trail head (bottom of hill about 1 mi. from road) or up at the Nuttall parking at the top of the hill past the Fern parking.

If you park at the Fern Point trail head you will hike in through the hemlock forest and cross a bridge (cut off right from the trail just before this bridge to access lower sections of Fern Buttress), go up hill and then come to a sign for climber's access on your right. Take that trail on the right and go down the ladders. This is Fern Point. Head left instead of right, follow the trail and the scenic views to reach the Honeymooner's ladder.

From the Nuttall parking you will walk through the hemlock forest, cross the bridge, and then head up a hill. Eventually you will see a sign on the left side of the trail for climbing access. Take that trail and down the ladders to go to the Cirque.

Roughly equidistant between the Fern Point and Cirque ladders is another set-- Honeymooner's ladders. Going down this set of ladders puts you dead in the middle (and arguably the most quality section) of Endless Wall at Snake Buttress.

As you get more familiar with the approaches to Endless, you'll find that there are also a few convenient rappel stations that facilitate getting to a few areas a bit quicker. They are mentioned in more detail (with pictures) in the Williams guidebook, and are generally easy to find off of the approach trail.

255 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Endless Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 218
Fantasy
Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 115
Fool Effect
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 125
The Upheaval
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 160
Black and Tan
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 108
Remission
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 112
Party in My Mind
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 226
Strike A Scowl
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 70
Mellifluous
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 72
Raging Waters
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 277
Legacy
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 158
Discombobulated
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 173
Aesthetica
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 99
Freaky Stylee
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 90
Bullet the New Sky
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 73
New World Order
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Fantasy M) Fantasy Area
 218
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 2 pitches
Fool Effect E) Kaymoor Slabs
 115
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Upheaval E) Kaymoor Slabs
 125
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Black and Tan M) Fantasy Area
 160
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Remission G) Diamond Point
 108
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Party in My Mind B) Party Buttress
 112
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Strike A Scowl G) Diamond Point
 226
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Mellifluous A) Fern Point
 70
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Raging Waters G) Diamond Point
 72
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Legacy J) Snake Buttress
 277
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Discombobulated J) Snake Buttress
 158
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Aesthetica M) Fantasy Area
 173
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Freaky Stylee B) Party Buttress
 99
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Bullet the New Sky J) Snake Buttress
 90
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
New World Order J) Snake Buttress
 73
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
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