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Routes in Diamond Point

Can I Do It Till I Need Glasses T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Crack A Smile T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dark Side, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Durometer 64 T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Fine Motor Control S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Gift of Grace, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Homer Erectus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Leave it to Jesus T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ovine Seduction T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Raging Waters T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Remission T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Straight Up and Stiff T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Strike A Scowl S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Stupendid Animation T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Supersymmetry T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b X
Weatherman's Thumb, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Zygomatic T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Cal Swoager, Stuart Kuperstock, 1985
Page Views: 12,304 total · 94/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on May 15, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is one of the New River superclassic crack climbs. The wall just right of the arete with the bolted 'Gift of Grace' is cut by a thin seam covered with chalk marks. The climb starts with a scary and strenuous to protect crack leading to a ledge on the right. From the ledge follow a slightly overhanging crack (5.10) to its top. Step left to a ledge with a good rest. Veer left and up using a thin seam with single finger pockets (crux). Climb the seam to the large horizontal crack below the roof. From here either traverse to the anchors on 'Gift of Grace' and lower, or continue to the top in a shallow corner (5.10?).

Location

The route is located at the Diamond Point. Get down Honeymooner's Ladders and head right past orange wall with Quinsana Plus. Squeeze between large boulder and the wall with Jesus and Tequilla. Continue along the trail past the huge overhang. With the overhang to your right you should see the face with Leave it to Jesus in front of you.

Protection

The bottom first moves can be protected with a #3 or #2 cam and TCU's. On the easier section medium nuts are good. Small nuts in the thin seam. #1 and #.75 camalots are useful on the traverse. Place longer slings higher up on a climb or else traversing can turn into an epic. Bolted anchor.

Photos

I just heard the story behind this routes name from Cal's first ever climbing partner. I have always been a fan of the history of climbing, routes and the eccentric folks that choose to partake in this crazy sport. I may have never met Cal but I feel like I knew him for a second listening to that story. Rest in peace. Mar 9, 2016

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