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Routes in Fantasy Area

Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the 4th be with you. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mowed out mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Rich Pleiss, Ron Augustino, 1985
Page Views: 11,305 total, 88/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Jun 14, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Great and sustained climbing in the hand/finger crack inside an orange right-facing corner. Laybacks, some stemming, and traverse through the roof in the end. Crack accepts solid pro. Beautiful looking route.

Location

From Honeymooner's Ladders take a bit of an upstream hike well past the wall with Legacy. Follow the wall until you get to a big roof. The route is located inside an orange corner around the buttress just past the roof.

Protection

Medium nuts and TCU's, cams up to #2. Bolted anchor.
Fun! Mostly laybacking and stemming. Really no jamming at all.

Bring a #1 and #2 and lots of small gear. If leading this again, I would actually bring my microstoppers and ball nuts. Jun 8, 2015