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Routes in Fantasy Area

Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the 4th be with you. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mowed out mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Barry, Artz. 1985
Page Views: 88 total, 13/month
Shared By: Kevin Umbel on Apr 24, 2017
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

A stone's throw climber's right of Fantasy. This route starts behind a detached block which you'll scamper up and behind to begin. For full credit one must start in the bowels of the abyss, but it is most customary to start on a ledge, mid-height behind the detached block. Make bouldery moves out the initial steep section to gain a nice stance at the base of the left-slanting splitter crack.

It's possible to backclean your first piece of protection through the steep section to minimize rope drag. From here, figure out how to enter the crack and climb it to its end, gaining another rest stance. Years ago there was a tat anchor here, but as of a few years ago, I believe NRAC member Milky Williams installed an anchor at the top of the cliff, making for fifty feet more of good climbing and an exciting finish!

Protection

Single rack of cams to 2" with doubles of .5 and .75, stoppers and a nice selection of 2' runners.

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