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Routes in Fantasy Area

Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the 4th be with you. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mowed out mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Paul Harmon
Page Views: 712 total, 6/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 21, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This route can be a bit dirty if it hasn't been climbed in a while, however it has some fun moves. This can also be easily top roped from the anchors above Fantasy. To lead this route, many of the more strenuous moves are above the bolts and off to the side of them. To start, climb up a broken crack system gain an open book of sorts to reach the 2nd bolt. From here head up and slightly right over some strenuous thin face moves to reach a nice jug below the 3rd bolt (crux). From here, diagonal up and left passing 3 more bolts with slab moves. The last bolt is pretty far from the previous bolt, however the climbing in this section is significantly easier.

Location

Start about 10 ft to the left of the start of Fantasy.

Protection

6 bolts, shuts.

Photos

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