Type: Trad, 120 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tim Mein and Rich Pleiss, 1984
Page Views: 16,843 total · 129/month
Shared By: Chris Hillios on May 4, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


186 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

The obvious hand crack that heads straight up the Fantasy roof area.

15 feet of semi-awkward face and crack climbing leads to a nice long splitter with bomber jams, great rest stances and good holds both in and out of the crack.

Location

Quickest way in is to park at the Nuttall lot. Take the trail in and where it forks for the Cirque ladder, go right (downstream) and follow the rim until you reach the clearing with a very distinct tree (there is a picture in the guidebook) where you'll find a pair of rings to rappel in. You'll find yourself staring at the route on your way down. 1 60m barely makes it with stretch.

If you're not into rapping in, take the Cirque ladder in and head downstream until you reach it. This adds about ten minutes or so to the approach.

Protection

Takes everything from .5 to 4. You may want multiples in the 1 and 2 sizes. Hexes work good in this too. Bolted anchor at the top of the "first pitch".
Kyle Hartung  
 
This route is fun and straight forward - climb up the crack. I thought the crux was actually the first few moves. What do I know... Jun 30, 2016
Matthew Gill  
 
Attack the crack with all of the hands you have. It's so good that you will start off smiling and by the end you will be manic with mirth. Jul 2, 2018