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Routes in M) Fantasy Area
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Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Doce Doe T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fenti Face T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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May the 4th Be With You T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mowed Out Mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rebel Spade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Riddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Sparks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 38.05596, -81.05393 |
| FA: | Doug Reed 1989 |
| Page Views: | 227 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Ryan Booth on Nov 3, 2023 · Updates |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS.
Details
Description
Recommended for the endless wall die hards. Sparks is a high quality face climb on bullet sandstone. As most endless wall climbs, this one is very hard for the grade. Doug gave it 12c and Mike Williams comments in the guidebook "if this were graded 5.13, noone would question it." I'm leaving it here at 12d. Don't get sandbagged!
Start at a low roof right of new fangled dangle. Campus up some crimps and mini jugs until you get established on the face. From here the route moves left to a grippy layback arete.
Ride the arete until the bolt line forces you back onto the face. Shake out on a decent mail slot then fire off an extended boulder (maybe V7 crimping?) problem ending in a high step (on bad feet) lock off (small crimp side pull) to a jug pinch.
Shake out then move slightly left back onto the arete using a few sloped pockets. The arete will put you back on the face for a classic new river slab finish.
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