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Routes in Fantasy Area

Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the 4th be with you. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mowed out mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Tom Howard, Bill Newman 1981
Page Views: 2,786 total, 29/month
Shared By: Sam Stephens on Jan 26, 2010 with updates
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Acute dihedral that starts from low roof. Start is wide and burly. The route arches up and left through the gorgeous dihedral. Anchors were recently added.

Location

Right before you turn the corner to the Undeserved area. It's easy to walk by but once you see it you won't ever miss it again.

Protection

Small to medium sized cams, optional #6 for the bottom moves. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Mike Nevko
Currently Charlotte
 
Mike Nevko   Currently Charlotte
 
Welp, hot damn the start of this thing was like getting covered in honey then turning around to see a grizzly bear licking it lips. You get up to run away but you trip and fall into a fire-ant mound.

You might not be enjoying everything in the moment, but if you get out alive you have a story to tell and you wouldn't change a thing.

This is very protect-able, find the hidden number two in the back for the start. Fist-jam and levitate. I went left to the crimps and armbars, apparently you can do it going right, too. Got my got foot stuck for a couple minutes, contemplated trying to take my shoe off and attempting to finish the climb before it popped out. Also I was very happy, I didn't eat before this or else it would have turned into slimy offwidth.

Once, I returned to consciousness and made it to the stance 15ft up. I looked up and saw this beautiful arching crack that just ate up finger sized cams.

A good thrutch is needed for a healthy lifestyle. Feb 20, 2017