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Routes in Fantasy Area

Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the 4th Be With You T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mowed out mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 110 ft
FA: Kevin Umbel, Graham Elliott
Page Views: 242 total · 7/month
Shared By: Kevin Umbel on May 4, 2015
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Start 15' left of Virgin Thing by climbing a large tree for 12-15', plug some gear and climb into a large hueco. Exit the hueco left and follow holds up and slightly trend right to a stance. From stance, follow line of least resistance and gear as you will eventually finds holds but dwindling pro. From here you'll need a blue slider or possibly fiddle small brass, while running it out (5.9) till the slab meets steeper, colorful rock. From here get great pro and follow good jugs with the occasional horizontal cam until you find yourself under the large capped roof. From here, get pro and traverse right out roof and pull over on top the cliff, slinging a tree for an anchor. This route is not entirely straight forward, and will challenge the aspiring 5.10 leader. It is an amazing route, minus the tree shucking one must do to gain the route and is not to be missed for anyone who is searching for moderate, off the beaten path routes. Plus, you won't have to wait in line for the other neighboring classics.

Location

Start 15' left of Virgin Thing. A full 70m rope will get you down.

Protection

Small to medium stoppers, cams up to 1", with a focus on smaller cams, offsets being very useful, if not necessary in two places. Again, tote a blue slider along if you don't feel comfortable running out 5.8-5.9 and a healthy selection of 2' slings.

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