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Routes in Fantasy Area

Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the 4th be with you. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mowed out mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Doug Reed 1991
Page Views: 1,654 total, 19/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 15, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This excellent, over-looked line climbs just as good as it looks, and lacks the tiresome slab cruxes of many Endless Wall 5.12s.

Scramble up the start of Doce Doe to a reach a big ledge and an airy traverse left to the high first bolt. Follow incut jugs up the orange wall to a good stance below a pair of vertical edges. Balance your way over this section to more good holds and easy slabbin to the roof. Get Gunky, crank over the thrilling ceiling, and try to hang on to the anchor.

Location

The next bolted line right of Aesthetica, climbing a beautiful orange & blue speckled face to a looming roof.

Protection

6 bolts to 2 BA. Optional ~1" gear for ramp start.

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