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Routes in Fantasy Area

Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the 4th be with you. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mowed out mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 2,222 total, 21/month
Shared By: Chris Whisenhunt on Apr 30, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Same start as black and tan but traverse in from the right to the first bolt. Crimp your way through some heinously small holds with a few NRG lock-offs. Once you clip the third bolt the crux is done with however, there are still some moves for the next two bolts that will keep you thinking. After you clip the fifth bolt the route eases up a little until you hit the roof. I have seen many people fly off from above the last bolt. It's really not that hard. Full on beta spray is in the comments for it.

CLASSIC!!

Location

Bolted route to the left of Black & Tan corner.

Protection

9 bolts with a 2 bolt anchor at the top with rings. Lower down.

Photos

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Chris Whisenhunt
Fayetteville, WV
 
Chris Whisenhunt   Fayetteville, WV  
 
BETA-SPRAY.

I have seen numerous people whip off of the top of this climb. It's really not harder than 5.10 once you have the beta below.

After you clip the last bolt you can pull back under the roof and get a good lefthand hand jam rest in the horizontal. From here I switch around my hands, and reach up over the lip to a good horizontal and then match. Throw a left heel up and reach up to an incut left hand side pull. Turn your heel into a toe, stand up and hand foot match your right foot then pop over to a crimp nipple. Walk your feet over right and then cross up and right with your left hand to an incut jug. Jugs from there on up. Nov 23, 2014
Bees on route around bolts 5/6! Jul 8, 2017