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Routes in M) Fantasy Area

Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the 4th Be With You T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mowed out mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tom Howard, 1985
Page Views: 1,781 total · 15/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Mar 9, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details


This route would benefit from more traffic, however it's not recommended unless you very proficient with placing gear and solid at the grade. A bit dirty, the top has lots of lichen. Start on the left of the arete. Climb up on this side until it's easier to be on the right. Continue up to reach a roof about 20ft from the top. Stay to the right of the arete, get some good gear(it's your last pro until the top), and pull the overhang heading for a tree. The gear is pretty tricky for the first 40 ft or so, after that it becomes more obvious. Take the placements when you get them. Interesting route for the grade!


If you locate Fantasy, this is the next arete about 80 yards upstream.


Gear up to a #2 Camalot, mostly small nuts and small cams. The smaller the better, but no real need for brass or micro stoppers. Lower from slings around a tree at the top.



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