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Routes in Fantasy Area

Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the 4th be with you. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mowed out mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Tom Howard, 1985
Page Views: 1,650 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Mar 9, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This route would benefit from more traffic, however it's not recommended unless you very proficient with placing gear and solid at the grade. A bit dirty, the top has lots of lichen. Start on the left of the arete. Climb up on this side until it's easier to be on the right. Continue up to reach a roof about 20ft from the top. Traverse to the left side to the arete, get some good gear(it's your last pro until the top), and pull the overhang heading for a tree. The gear is pretty tricky for the first 40 ft or so, after that it becomes more obvious. Take the placements when you get them. Interesting route for the grade!

Location

If you locate Fantasy, this is the next arete about 80 yards upstream.

Protection

Gear up to a #2 Camalot, mostly small nuts and small cams. The smaller the better, but no real need for brass or micro stoppers. Lower from slings around a tree at the top.

Photos

Aaron Moses
Richmond, Va
  5.8 PG13
Aaron Moses   Richmond, Va
  5.8 PG13
I followed the directions above since I didn't bring my guidebook to the crag. At the roof I traversed about 6-8 ft left and pulled the roof. It was fun, juggy, exposed climbing, but after the roof the wall was covered in an inch thick layer of lichen(had to dig around for holds), and then the anchors were on the right side of the arete. This would be a fun variation with some cleaning, and it's own anchor. I believe the description should say to stay right of the arete at the top(this is what the book says to do). I give it a PG13 because I'm not sure the available gear would keep you off the deck if you fell before the 1st good horizontal. Apr 20, 2015