All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall

M) Fantasy Area Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in M) Fantasy Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	May the 4th Be With You T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Mowed Out Mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Rebel Spade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Riddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Sparks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Elevation:	1,823 ft	556 m
GPS:	38.05596, -81.05393 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	66,123 total · 310/month
Shared By:	Chad Umbel on May 31, 2007
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Endless Wall can get pretty hot, but this is one of the cooler areas, especially in the summer. Great 11+-12- sport lines, and the best 5.8 splitter at the NRG!

Getting There

Walk maybe 10 minutes upstream from the Honeymooner's Ladders, or find the obvious Fantasy Rappel (70m required).

21 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at M) Fantasy Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 330 ● Fantasy Trad 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 76 ● Doce Doe Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 238 ● Black and Tan Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 4 ● The Orgasmatron Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 16 ● New Fangled Dangle Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 9 ● Mr. Fantasy Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 297 ● Aesthetica Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a 42 ● The Stick Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 21 ● Fantasy Face Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 30 ● Erotica Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a 5 ● Virgin Thing Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b 63 ● Blackhappy Sport