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Routes in Fantasy Area

Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the 4th be with you. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mowed out mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Doug Reed, 1992
Page Views: 1,076 total, 10/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 21, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

You will most likely want to stick clip the first bolt. Start by using a large undercling and muscle off the ground through the low roof. The arete stays engaging for a couple of bolts with a crux coming as you move onto the left face. Climbing is easier for a few bolts as you continue up the face until the arete ends and you head toward the right side of the 3 ft wide overhang. Hand traverse under the overhang and pull it on the left side. The traverse is a bit heady and you probably don't want to fall here. (This traverse could be better protected by placing a cam if you are concerned). Engaging climbing on high quality lighter stone brings a little pump before the anchors.

Location

Start about 15 ft to the left of the start of Black and Tan and about 10 ft to the right of the start of Virgin Thing.

Protection

8 bolts, shuts. (If you choose to supplement the protection on the traverse, bring a #2 or #3 Camalot.)

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