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Routes in Fantasy Area

Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the 4th be with you. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mowed out mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Steve Cater, Jason Babkirk 1998
Page Views: 770 total, 9/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Nov 21, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Warning: This description includes route beta that will ruin an onsight attempt. Don't be an elitist though, read the description! :)

The book calls this 5.10c but I give it 5.12! I thought it was harder than Aesthetica. Granted, it's nothing like Aesthetica, but I make the comparison because Aesthetica is so close. This route has a 5.10 start up to the first bolt. As you work up to the second bolt there's a horizontal crack where it's highly recommended you place a cam. Then figure out how to get the hold next to the 2nd bolt. This was the crux for me. I'm 5'6" and I absolutely COULD NOT reach that hold, especially using skills a 5.10 climber would need. My 5'11" friend really had to stretch to reach it. This move is very height dependent and leads me to believe Steve Cater is 7' tall. Once you get the hold, move left and mantle up and climb to the ledge. Climb up to clip the third bolt and easier 5.10 or 5.9 climbing gets you to the fourth and 5th bolt. Here's another crux, but this is much easier to figure out. However, I would think it's more like an 11a/b crux than 10c. You need really high feet and no fear of falling. Anyway, once you get the 6th bolt clipped you're home free. Clip the next 2 bolts and you're at the anchor.

Location

This route begins far to the right of Fantasy and Aesthetica, and you have to climb up a 4-5 ft. boulder to get to the base of it when approaching from those climbs. You'll see it before you round the corner, so Aesthetica will still be in sight. It's to the right of The Orgasmatron which has a beautiful splitter in the middle of the face.

Protection

8 bolts and a red or yellow alien. For those of you who don't own an alien, yellow is about the same size as a .3 camalot.

Photos

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Tara deCamp
Arlington, VA
 
Tara deCamp   Arlington, VA
 
This climb definitely feels much harder than a 10c, but the description is a little dramatic. I'm 5'2" with an average wingspan, and I can reach everything statically (maybe a deadpoint for one move if your feet aren't situated). It's super fun but definitely a little freaky! Nov 5, 2017
Fun little puzzle...er...riddle. Use some trad trickery at the horizontal seam and the 10c grade is reasonable. Nov 29, 2015
AOSR
Wherever we park!
  5.11- PG13
AOSR   Wherever we park!
  5.11- PG13
As the description above mentions, this is way harder than 10c and pretty heady without a cam. The book says three stars and sustained climbing. Neither of these are true. There are two distinct cruxes both much harder than 10c and the rest of the climbing is pretty easy. The route was pretty dirty and covered in spider webs when I did it.

That said, I still give it a star. The bottom crux is burly but cool and the upper crux is thin and techy. Just don't expect it to feel 10c! Apr 13, 2015