All Locations > W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area

Mr. Fantasy

Name: Mr. Fantasy
Rating: 2.6

5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British

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Routes in M) Fantasy Area

L › R R › L A › Z

	Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Doce Doe T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Fenti Face T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
	Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	May the 4th Be With You T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Mowed Out Mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Rebel Spade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
	Riddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Sparks S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
	Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
	Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Sport, 50 ft (15 m)
GPS:	38.05596, -81.05393
FA:	Rick Mix 1993
Page Views:	5,561 total · 24/month
Shared By:	Chad Umbel on May 31, 2007
Admins:	Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson Page Updates (admin only)

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Explore this route in 3D

Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Access Issue: CLICK HERE TO REPORT BAD BOLTS! Details

Description

Approach this classic pitch by climbing the obvious hand crack (Fantasy) to a bolted station up and left of the tat anchor directly above Fantasy. Climb up and right off the belay to gain a fixed wire of some sort then surf up and left clipping bolts. This route offers some really good exposure and cool moves out horizontals and crimps. There is a rusty old chain anchor at the top of the climb. One 60 meter rope will see you to the ground.