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Routes in Fantasy Area

Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the 4th be with you. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mowed out mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Rick Mix 1993
Page Views: 3,340 total, 26/month
Shared By: chad umbel on May 31, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Approach this classic pitch by climbing the obvious hand crack (Fantasy) to a bolted station up and left of the tat anchor directly above Fantasy. Climb up and right off the belay to gain a fixed wire of some sort then surf up and left clipping bolts. This route offers some really good exposure and cool moves out horizontals and crimps. There is a rusty old chain anchor at the top of the climb. One 60 meter rope will see you to the ground.

Location

Fantasy Roof Area at Endless Wall.

Protection

A traditional rack is needed for Fantasy Crack to approach the roof which is protected by just draws. 5 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos

kipp.fo
Los Angeles, CA
kipp.fo   Los Angeles, CA
Spiders! Webs! AHHHH Oct 18, 2014