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Routes in Fantasy Area

Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
May the 4th be with you. T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mowed out mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Riddle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Umbel, Domzalski, Jenkins. May 4th, 2014.
Page Views: 100 total, 14/month
Shared By: Kevin Umbel on Apr 28, 2017
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

Begin by climbing up a left leaning weakness left of Two Step arete. Climb slightly back right to a stance before the route becomes more vertical. Follow juggy features and good pro until the climbing and pro begins to change in difficulty abruptly (crux). From here negotiate less than ideal pro and do hard moves to gain a body length or so distance above your gear. From here make a few moves left traversing to a silver master cam gear placement followed by a 1" cam placement enroute to the Riddle anchors. You can also climb straight up from above the crux to top out the cliff but there is room for big fall potential and the climbing is a bit harder.

Location

Begin 10-15' left of the arete.

Protection

Single set of cams to 1", focus on small cams. A blue/yellow offset master cam was the crux piece, backed up with a blue tcu, but I'm sure you could use something comparable in other cam manufacturers. Single set of stoppers. Several 2' slings.

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