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May the 4th Be With You
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in M) Fantasy Area
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Aesthetica S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Black and Tan T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Blackhappy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Doce Doe T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Erotica S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Fantasy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fantasy Face S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Jet Cap S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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May the 4th Be With You T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Mowed Out Mama T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Mr. Fantasy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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New Fangled Dangle T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Orgasmatron, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Rebel Spade S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Riddle S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Stick, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Tide, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Two-Step Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Unknown T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Virgin Thing S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| FA: | Umbel, Domzalski, Jenkins. May 4th, 2014. |
| Page Views: | 656 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Kevin Umbel on Apr 28, 2017 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Begin by climbing up a left leaning weakness left of Two Step arete. Climb slightly back right to a stance before the route becomes more vertical. Follow juggy features and good pro until the climbing and pro begins to change in difficulty abruptly (crux). From here negotiate less than ideal pro and do hard moves to gain a body length or so distance above your gear. From here make a few moves left traversing to a silver master cam gear placement followed by a 1" cam placement enroute to the Riddle anchors. You can also climb straight up from the crux to top out the cliff but there is room for big fall potential and the climbing is a bit harder.
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