Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Doug Reed
Page Views: 48 total · 19/month
Shared By: Helene N on Nov 11, 2019
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

This route features surprisingly good movement on good rock and deserves more traffic than it seems to get. The climb begins with a bouldery sequence in a shallow dihedral to establish on a blunt arete. The rest of the climb consists of classic heady slab climbing to fight your way to each bolt until the terrain becomes more featured at the top.

The climb is well-bolted, with a clipping stance at each bolt to keep the slab-terror at bay. And the rock is cleaner than expected at the top, as you don't have to scrabble around the crinkly lichen that you typically run into at the top of many other NRG climbs.

This is a good 5.12 option if you want to escape the crowds that take over the left side of the Fantasy Area around Blackhappy.

Location

The guidebook describes the start as the right end of a low roof off of cheater blocks, which used to be perched precariously on the edge of a large boulder. The cheater blocks are gone as of Nov 10, 2019, so the most reasonable way to start the climb now is to jug up to the roof holds after stick-clipping the first bolt. This doesn't necessarily detract from the quality of the route, and shorter people can establish themselves on the start of the climb with minimal stress!

Protection

10 bolts, bolt anchor.

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