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Riddle

5.11a, Sport, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 25 votes
FA: Steve Cater, Jason Babkirk 1998
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall > M) Fantasy Area
Warning Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS. DetailsDrop down

Description

***Warning: This description includes route beta that will ruin an onsight attempt. Don't be an elitist though, read the description! :)***

The book calls this 5.10c but I give it 5.12! I thought it was harder than Aesthetica. Granted, it's nothing like Aesthetica, but I make the comparison because Aesthetica is so close. This route has a 5.10 start up to the first bolt. As you work up to the second bolt there's a horizontal crack where it's highly recommended you place a cam. Then figure out how to get the hold next to the 2nd bolt. This was the crux for me. I'm 5'6" and I absolutely COULD NOT reach that hold, especially using skills a 5.10 climber would need. My 5'11" friend really had to stretch to reach it. This move is very height dependent and leads me to believe Steve Cater is 7' tall. Once you get the hold, move left and mantle up and climb to the ledge. Climb up to clip the third bolt and easier 5.10 or 5.9 climbing gets you to the fourth and 5th bolt. Here's another crux, but this is much easier to figure out. However, I would think it's more like an 11a/b crux than 10c. You need really high feet and no fear of falling. Anyway, once you get the 6th bolt clipped you're home free. Clip the next 2 bolts and you're at the anchor.

Location

This route begins far to the right of Fantasy and Aesthetica, and you have to climb up a 4-5 ft. boulder to get to the base of it when approaching from those climbs. You'll see it before you round the corner, so Aesthetica will still be in sight. It's to the right of The Orgasmatron which has a beautiful splitter in the middle of the face.

Protection

8 bolts and a red or yellow alien. For those of you who don't own an alien, yellow is about the same size as a .3 camalot.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

AOSR
Green Mnt
  5.11- PG13
[Hide Comment] As the description above mentions, this is way harder than 10c and pretty heady without a cam. The book says three stars and sustained climbing. Neither of these are true. There are two distinct cruxes both much harder than 10c and the rest of the climbing is pretty easy. The route was pretty dirty and covered in spider webs when I did it.

That said, I still give it a star. The bottom crux is burly but cool and the upper crux is thin and techy. Just don't expect it to feel 10c! Apr 13, 2015
[Hide Comment] Fun little puzzle...er...riddle. Use some trad trickery at the horizontal seam and the 10c grade is reasonable. Nov 29, 2015
Tara d
Zoe, KY
 
[Hide Comment] This climb definitely feels much harder than a 10c, but the description is a little dramatic. I'm 5'2" with an average wingspan, and I can reach everything statically (maybe a deadpoint for one move if your feet aren't situated). It's super fun but definitely a little freaky! Nov 5, 2017
Kiryl Bushwackacowski
  5.11a PG13
[Hide Comment] If you're thinking about "warming up" on this, I recommend that you think again. Apr 26, 2018
Andrew Chen
Seattle, WA
[Hide Comment] uhh... take Jun 27, 2018
Kim Parretti
Leicester, MA
5.11a
[Hide Comment] Well I had fun on it. I managed to stick clip the second bolt (by sitting on my boyfriend's shoulders) which made the low crux not sketchy. The second bolt certainly wasn't 5.12. I grabbed the horizontal with my right hand, got my feet up and grabbed a flat undercling block with my left hand and stood up. It was still a reach, but not crazy hard. The hardest move for me was up on the face where I grabbed a razor blade right hand crimp got my feet really high on not the best foot holds and stood up to the flake jug. I did quite enjoy the route though, whatever the heck grade it is. Oct 14, 2018
Jason Yee
  5.11+ PG13
[Hide Comment] I rarely comment on MP (maybe my first comment come to think of it), but I felt compelled to post due to a couple things...

1) The deck (or hit your belayer) potential on putting up the first 2 bolts up is extremely high. Just be warned on both the belayer and climber's end. I feel this applies to the moves going out from the 2nd bolt on (until the ledge) as well.
2) The grading on this climb is so off (and misleading) that I had to call it out. If we used this climb as the benchmark 10.C at the gorge, then Aesthetica would be 10.B...just think about that before trying to warm up on this "3 star" gem. Mar 6, 2022
GWB
  5.11-
[Hide Comment] At 6'2" moving from 1st to 2nd bolt wasn't bad. The upper crux definitely feels tough for the grade. Oct 7, 2024