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Routes in B) Party Buttress

'Bout Time S,TR 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Autum Fire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back in the Saddle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Biohazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimes of Flashin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Diversity in Microcosm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eat My Dust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Exoduster S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freaky Stylee S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Harbinger Scarab S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Manute Bol T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mental Wings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Modern Primitive S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Party All the Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Till Yer Blind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party in My Mind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plug, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Plyometrics T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Pussy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Premarital Bliss T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
S'more Energy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smooth Operator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stealth and Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stim-O-Stam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sweetest Taboo, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Techman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Through the Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Carl Samples and Bob Rentka 1988
Page Views: 5,825 total · 43/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 8, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Climb the steep face to the bolt. Diagonal up slightly left and then slightly right. The wall is steeper than it appears. Good gear for most of the climb, but it gets a bit sparse near the top; but the climbing gets easier.

Location

Start below a bolt, about 15 Ft. right of the first arete past the Biohazard corner.

Protection

1 bolt, mostly small gear around 1". Tri cams may be helpful. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Aaron Moses
Richmond, Va
 
Aaron Moses   Richmond, Va
 
Great climbing on perfect clean rock with bomber gear often well below your feet. Spicy, but shouldn't be dangerous with a good belay. Don't miss the perfect mono pocket. Apr 29, 2015
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
This has to be the funnest, finest, bestest 5.10B at the New. Exquisite climbing from start to finish. Don't forget to turn around and admire the view. May 31, 2016
Pnelson

 
Pnelson    
 
I'm going to just go there and say that this is the best single pitch of 5.10 in the nation. May 14, 2018
Joshua McMillan
Fayetteville, NC
 
Joshua McMillan   Fayetteville, NC
 
Placed 3 or 4 TCUs, 2 teeny X4's, a red #1 C4, and a green .075. The small X4's can be backed up with tiny nuts. Run out at the top is over 5.8/9ish climbing and felt safe. Start is probably the crux. Sep 4, 2018

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