Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Carl Samples and Bob Rentka 1988
Page Views: 5,967 total · 43/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 8, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


96 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Climb the steep face to the bolt. Diagonal up slightly left and then slightly right. The wall is steeper than it appears. Good gear for most of the climb, but it gets a bit sparse near the top; but the climbing gets easier.

Location

Start below a bolt, about 15 Ft. right of the first arete past the Biohazard corner.

Protection

1 bolt, mostly small gear around 1". Tri cams may be helpful. Bolted anchor.

Photos

Aaron Moses
Richmond, Va
 
Aaron Moses   Richmond, Va
 
Great climbing on perfect clean rock with bomber gear often well below your feet. Spicy, but shouldn't be dangerous with a good belay. Don't miss the perfect mono pocket. Apr 29, 2015
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
This has to be the funnest, finest, bestest 5.10B at the New. Exquisite climbing from start to finish. Don't forget to turn around and admire the view. May 31, 2016
Pnelson

 
Pnelson    
 
I'm going to just go there and say that this is the best single pitch of 5.10 in the nation. May 14, 2018
Joshua McMillan
Fayetteville, NC
 
Joshua McMillan   Fayetteville, NC
 
Placed 3 or 4 TCUs, 2 teeny X4's, a red #1 C4, and a green .075. The small X4's can be backed up with tiny nuts. Run out at the top is over 5.8/9ish climbing and felt safe. Start is probably the crux. Sep 4, 2018
Kyle Price
Youngstown, OH
 
Kyle Price   Youngstown, OH
 
little run out in some places with out the tcu's little more difficult than party till your blind great route none the less. thank god for offset wc nuts cause with my lack of tcu's i would have struggled with placements in the mid height of the climb Jan 3, 2019