Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Porter Jarrard, Doug Reed
Page Views: 6,823 total · 55/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 2, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route

79 Opinions

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Climb up and slightly left heading for the high first bolt. A small nut can be placed about 7 ft below the first bolt if so desired. From the first bolt, continue straight up on mostly positive holds to reach the 4th bolt. After clipping the 4th bolt, traverse right over the bolt and thin holds and then head up to the 5th bolt. Shake out here! From here, head straight up using crimps and good footwork to eventually reach a great horizontal (crux). Easy climbing from here to the shuts. Although there are only 5 bolts, all of the hard moves are done right near the bolts. The crux sequence shares the finish (and last bolt) with Techman. Awesome route!

This wall is one of the first at Endless to get sun.


This route is located immediately to the right of Stim-o-Stam and immediately to the left of Techman.


5 bolts, shuts. A yellow TCU can also be placed at the horizontal after the crux to protect the runout to the anchors.


It's a beautiful sublime route at a solid 5.12a grade. Crux is exciting on gorgeous rock. A classic! Sep 25, 2016
Justine Jenkins
Justine Jenkins   FAYETTEVILLE, WV
This is a great route, but it is pretty heinously reachy if you are shorter than 5'5." I'm 5'2" and I found the crux up top to be next to impossible--I would say this is a particularly reachy 12a. Oct 9, 2016
Seen it sent by multiple climbers around the same height, some of them very easily -- Static beta exists for shorter folks, though a bit more involved. But per usual at the Gorge, expect to work harder the shorter you are. Oct 9, 2016
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
I know a lot of shorter people have a harder time with the traverse crux moving to the last bolt instead of the long lock off move. On the lock off move, my wife was able to get on better feet up higher and it made the lock off easier.

For me the traverse wasn't that bad but that lock off move kept getting me because the feet were so high. Oct 11, 2016
H Nguyen  
I agree with BrianWS that we shorties often need to work harder at the New. However, Freaky Stylee does succumb to beta, even for shorties. My partner and I are both 5'3", and we found crucial but obscure holds that put the ledge well within reach, and the crux was static for us. There are definitely some reachy routes at the New, but this climb is accessible to a wide range of heights. Oct 13, 2016