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Routes in B) Party Buttress

'Bout Time S,TR 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Autum Fire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back in the Saddle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Biohazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimes of Flashin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Diversity in Microcosm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eat My Dust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Exoduster S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freaky Stylee S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Harbinger Scarab S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Manute Bol T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mental Wings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Modern Primitive S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Party All the Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Till Yer Blind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party in My Mind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plug, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Plyometrics T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pocket Pussy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Premarital Bliss T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
S'more Energy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smooth Operator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Stealth and Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stim-O-Stam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sweetest Taboo, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Techman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Through the Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Porter Jarrard, Doug Reed
Page Views: 6,715 total · 55/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Nov 2, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Climb up and slightly left heading for the high first bolt. A small nut can be placed about 7 ft below the first bolt if so desired. From the first bolt, continue straight up on mostly positive holds to reach the 4th bolt. After clipping the 4th bolt, traverse right over the bolt and thin holds and then head up to the 5th bolt. Shake out here! From here, head straight up using crimps and good footwork to eventually reach a great horizontal (crux). Easy climbing from here to the shuts. Although there are only 5 bolts, all of the hard moves are done right near the bolts. The crux sequence shares the finish (and last bolt) with Techman. Awesome route!

This wall is one of the first at Endless to get sun.

Location

This route is located immediately to the right of Stim-o-Stam and immediately to the left of Techman.

Protection

5 bolts, shuts. A yellow TCU can also be placed at the horizontal after the crux to protect the runout to the anchors.

Photos

It's a beautiful sublime route at a solid 5.12a grade. Crux is exciting on gorgeous rock. A classic! Sep 25, 2016
Justine Jenkins
FAYETTEVILLE, WV
Justine Jenkins   FAYETTEVILLE, WV
This is a great route, but it is pretty heinously reachy if you are shorter than 5'5." I'm 5'2" and I found the crux up top to be next to impossible--I would say this is a particularly reachy 12a. Oct 9, 2016
BrianWS
  5.12-
BrianWS  
  5.12-
Seen it sent by multiple climbers around the same height, some of them very easily -- Static beta exists for shorter folks, though a bit more involved. But per usual at the Gorge, expect to work harder the shorter you are. Oct 9, 2016
Steve Lineberry
Charlotte, NC
  5.12a
Steve Lineberry   Charlotte, NC  
  5.12a
I know a lot of shorter people have a harder time with the traverse crux moving to the last bolt instead of the long lock off move. On the lock off move, my wife was able to get on better feet up higher and it made the lock off easier.

For me the traverse wasn't that bad but that lock off move kept getting me because the feet were so high. Oct 11, 2016
H Nguyen  
 
I agree with BrianWS that we shorties often need to work harder at the New. However, Freaky Stylee does succumb to beta, even for shorties. My partner and I are both 5'3", and we found crucial but obscure holds that put the ledge well within reach, and the crux was static for us. There are definitely some reachy routes at the New, but this climb is accessible to a wide range of heights. Oct 13, 2016

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