Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Rick Fairtrace, Scott Jones (Oct. 1985)
Page Views: 3,392 total · 25/month
Shared By: DaveB on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Like fist jamming? If so, this route's for you. Ease into crack from right, commence jamming, and be ready to place gear (somewhat slick here). Beyond fistcrack (crux), work up to flaring pod utilizing generous horizontals and ledges. At large chockstone, move out left onto face and up left-leaning crack/flake. Layback and jam to top!

Location

From Fern Point ladders, go left through corridor past Mellifluous, Freeky Stylee, Biohazard, Party All The Time. At the next corner/dihedral, look for a couple of fist and off-width cracks. (A ledge, halfway up the right crack, maintains a large stick bird's nest...with white sh*t streaks oozing down the rock.) Smooth Operator is the fist crack LEFT of this (see photo).

Protection

Small-med-large. #4 Friends for initial fistcrack. Optional #5 and/or #6 Friend(s) for the top.

Bolted anchors.

Photos

Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
No need for anything larger than a #4 camalot. Two 4's are nice for the bottom half but the chimney, which is super easy, and the upper crack takes small to medium gear. Leave the offwidth gear in the pack. Also a long sling is ideal for the chockstone at the top of the chimney. May 20, 2015