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Routes in Party Buttress

'Bout Time S,TR 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Autum Fire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Back in the Saddle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Biohazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crimes of Flashin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Diversity in Microcosm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Eat My Dust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Exoduster S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Freaky Stylee S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Harbinger Scarab S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Manute Bol T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Mental Wings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Modern Primitive S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Party All the Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party Till Yer Blind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Party in My Mind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Plug, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pocket Pussy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Premarital Bliss T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
S'more Energy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Smooth Operator T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Stealth and Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Stim-O-Stam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sweetest Taboo , The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Techman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Through the Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Rick Fairtrace, Scott Jones (Oct. 1985)
Page Views: 3,108 total, 25/month
Shared By: DaveB on Sep 27, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Like fist jamming? If so, this route's for you. Ease into crack from right, commence jamming, and be ready to place gear (somewhat slick here). Beyond fistcrack (crux), work up to flaring pod utilizing generous horizontals and ledges. At large chockstone, move out left onto face and up left-leaning crack/flake. Layback and jam to top!

Location

From Fern Point ladders, go left through corridor past Mellifluous, Freeky Stylee, Biohazard, Party All The Time. At the next corner/dihedral, look for a couple of fist and off-width cracks. (A ledge, halfway up the right crack, maintains a large stick bird's nest...with white sh*t streaks oozing down the rock.) Smooth Operator is the fist crack LEFT of this (see photo).

Protection

Small-med-large. #4 Friends for initial fistcrack. Optional #5 and/or #6 Friend(s) for the top.

Bolted anchors.
Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
Ed Wade   Hermann, MO
 
No need for anything larger than a #4 camalot. Two 4's are nice for the bottom half but the chimney, which is super easy, and the upper crack takes small to medium gear. Leave the offwidth gear in the pack. Also a long sling is ideal for the chockstone at the top of the chimney. May 20, 2015