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Smooth Operator

5.9, Trad, 90 ft,  Avg: 3.6 from 40 votes
FA: Rick Fairtrace, Scott Jones (Oct. 1985)
West Virginia > The New River G… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall > B) Party Buttress
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Like fist jamming? If so, this route's for you. Ease into crack from right, commence jamming, and be ready to place gear (somewhat slick here). Beyond fistcrack (crux), work up to flaring pod utilizing generous horizontals and ledges. At large chockstone, move out left onto face and up left-leaning crack/flake. Layback and jam to top!

Location

From Fern Point ladders, go left through corridor past Mellifluous, Freeky Stylee, Biohazard, Party All The Time. At the next corner/dihedral, look for a couple of fist and off-width cracks. (A ledge, halfway up the right crack, maintains a large stick bird's nest...with white sh*t streaks oozing down the rock.) Smooth Operator is the fist crack LEFT of this (see photo).

Protection

Small-med-large. #4 Friends for initial fistcrack. Optional #5 and/or #6 Friend(s) for the top.

Bolted anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

14yr old Matt fist jamming the start.
[Hide Photo] 14yr old Matt fist jamming the start.
Stemming through the fun upper half of the route.
[Hide Photo] Stemming through the fun upper half of the route.
Leader's view from the start.
[Hide Photo] Leader's view from the start.
Hutch on the super fun upper section of Smooth Operator.
[Hide Photo] Hutch on the super fun upper section of Smooth Operator.
Smooth Operator (5.9+).
[Hide Photo] Smooth Operator (5.9+).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ed Wade
Hermann, MO
 
[Hide Comment] No need for anything larger than a #4 camalot. Two 4's are nice for the bottom half but the chimney, which is super easy, and the upper crack takes small to medium gear. Leave the offwidth gear in the pack. Also a long sling is ideal for the chockstone at the top of the chimney. May 20, 2015