Trad, 90 ft,
Avg: 3.6 from 40
FA: Rick Fairtrace, Scott Jones (Oct. 1985)
> The New River G…
> New River Gorge…
> Endless Wall
> B) Party Buttress
Writing in chalk
Please stop putting the dreaded "X", "Bees" or "Snake" on the rock faces. Please be smart and conscious of others.
Stop putting tick marks on the rock unless you are going to brush them off when you are done on the route. This goes against the ethic of the area and in the eyes of the locals is the same as graffiti. Rock climbing is an outdoor sport and guess what lives outdoors? That's right, bees, wasps, snakes, and even bears! We all know they exist, no reason to write it on the walls.
Like fist jamming? If so, this route's for you. Ease into crack from right, commence jamming, and be ready to place gear (somewhat slick here). Beyond fistcrack (crux), work up to flaring pod utilizing generous horizontals and ledges. At large chockstone, move out left onto face and up left-leaning crack/flake. Layback and jam to top!
From Fern Point ladders, go left through corridor past Mellifluous, Freeky Stylee, Biohazard, Party All The Time. At the next corner/dihedral, look for a couple of fist and off-width cracks. (A ledge, halfway up the right crack, maintains a large stick bird's nest...with white sh*t streaks oozing down the rock.) Smooth Operator is the fist crack LEFT of this (see photo).
Small-med-large. #4 Friends for initial fistcrack. Optional #5 and/or #6 Friend(s) for the top.
14yr old Matt fist jamming the start.
Stemming through the fun upper half of the route.
Leader's view from the start.
Hutch on the super fun upper section of Smooth Operator.
Smooth Operator (5.9+).