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Modern Primitive
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 2.6 from 21
votes
Routes in B) Party Buttress
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'Bout Time S,TR 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Autumn Fire T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Back in the Saddle T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Biohazard T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Chouinard-Steck Variation S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Crimes of Flashin' S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Diversity in Microcosm T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Eat My Dust S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Exoduster S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Fascist Architecture S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Freaky Stylee S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Harbinger Scarab S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Manute Bol T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Mental Wings S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Modern Primitive S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Party All the Time T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Party in My Mind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Party Till Yer Blind T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Plug, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Plyometrics T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pocket Pussy S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Premarital Bliss T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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S'more Energy S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Smooth Operator T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Sneaky Scam T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Stealth N' Magic S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Stim-O-Stam S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Sweetest Taboo, The S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c |
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Techman S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Through the Never S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Doug Reed, Rick Thompson, 1988 |
| Page Views: | 2,132 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Jul 6, 2008 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Good rainy day route.
Climb up some easier moves to reach the 2nd bolt. Climbing increases in difficulty as you clip the 3rd bolt. From here, there appears to be two ways to do the crux. Straight up uses very thin edges to some okay pockets to reach a good hold above the 4th bolt. Alternately, you can do the crux moves around the bolt on thin edges and a small pocket to reach a large hold up and left. Once you reach the large hold it's great holds all the way back right to reach the shuts.
Climb up some easier moves to reach the 2nd bolt. Climbing increases in difficulty as you clip the 3rd bolt. From here, there appears to be two ways to do the crux. Straight up uses very thin edges to some okay pockets to reach a good hold above the 4th bolt. Alternately, you can do the crux moves around the bolt on thin edges and a small pocket to reach a large hold up and left. Once you reach the large hold it's great holds all the way back right to reach the shuts.
Photos
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