Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Rick Thompson, Dave Sippel, Mark Van Cura, Glenn Thomas, 1985
Page Views: 1,857 total · 13/month
Shared By: Nick Stayner on Sep 9, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


61 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Very fun jamming (hands in double cracks!) and stemming. Beautiful orange corner. In order to get the full value 5.10a rating, traverse from the anchors at the top of the corner to the undercling flake. It's possible to lower off of the anchors of Fascist Architecture down and right. If you end at the anchors in the corner, the route is 5.8.

Location

First major corner right of the major arete/buttress The Prowess. Looks for a narrow pillar split by two major double cracks.

Protection

smallish to 3". Bolts under large roof.

Photos

gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
A nice test for my new TC Pros (they were splendid in the crack). A nice climb, it's 5.8 to the chains. I thought the hardest move was actually getting to the chains. it's well protected, but, you are smearing on nubbins. May 31, 2016
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.10a
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.10a
The original line keeps traversing right and finally pulls around the corner of the long roof up to a tree...somewhat dirty business, but the protection is reasonable. First few moves of the traverse are the hardest. Jun 6, 2016
Wesley
Morgantown WV
 
Wesley   Morgantown WV
 
This thing was freaking fun. I loved the unique double hand cracks. They jams were a smidge tight on my hands, but way secure and super fun. I was having such a blast I forgot to place a second piece for way too long!

I'd give it 5.7 climbing until the double cracks turn into a single wide crack for 10-12 feet before the anchors. Probably gets that 5.8ish rating from these last few moves, which were a little grunty in the wide crack, and a little exposed smearing on nothing.

Also, I counted 4 stuck cams. One was still good enough that I clipped it on my way up! I extended my pro so it wouldn't walk, and the rock is super bomber so I didn't shove my gear very far back. I'd recommend doing the same! Dec 20, 2018