Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Dave Sippel, Mark Van Cura 1985
Page Views: 3,210 total · 23/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 8, 2007 with updates from Jordan K
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


48 Opinions

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Climb the cracks in the left facing corner until you are about level with the Exoduster shuts 10 Ft. to the left(5.8). Continue up and right over some easy but interestingly featured rock to gain a right facing corner. Follow the corner to the roof and traverse right about 10 Ft. to the shuts. On rainy days, the first half of this climb stays dry and you can traverse left to the shuts on Exoduster.

Most people traverse up and right to finish on the anchors of Through the Never. This traverse is rumored to be heady, and has been the site of some dramatic falls.

Location

Start in the corner just to the right of Exoduster.

Protection

All sizes of gear < 3". Bolted anchor.

Photos

Jordan K
Ohio
  5.10a
Jordan K   Ohio
  5.10a
It was pretty rainy (almost all other routes at this wall were drenched), but both top and bottom of this route were dry. There was one wet spot in the traverse under the first roof due to seepage, but not actually problematic at all and the entire top section was bone dry. Apr 16, 2015
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
I climbed this the day after I got engaged. I heard a story from some locals that one of the first ascentionists got married after establishing this line, and never climbed again.

Is it true? Anyone?

Well, I still climb... Oct 22, 2015
Will B  
My partner fell trying to clip the chains on Through The Never and took a 25-30 foot swinging whipper into the bottom of the upper corner system. Not a catastrophic fall, but he came down pretty beat up and it ended our trip.

It's tough to place gear in that upper horizontal, and the further you traverse towards the chains the worse your feet get. It's all there and no harder than 10a/b, but make sure you're happy with your gear before launching into that final stretch. Good route otherwise! Mar 27, 2016