Elevation: 1,959 ft
GPS: 38.056, -81.044 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 56,991 total · 348/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: SmithVentures, Pnelson, Chris Whisenhunt
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

Description

This is the hardest of the hard crags at the NRG.  It's steep, but don't expect many brainless enduro jughauls.  The Cirque has glorious classics that ascend up the sweeping wave of rock from 12b to 14b.  Proper Soul, a popular first 5.14, is here, as well as much harder and less-repeated routes like The Crouch and Freedom Tree.  The Cirque stays dry in all but the heaviest of storms, and something will be climbable here if the temperature is between 20 and 95 degrees.  

Note: this (along with the Hole) is one of the few areas within the New River Gorge in which perma/project draws are accepted, even though they are still technically not legal anywhere within park boundaries. By this point, most are steel permadraws, but still take care in inspecting fixed gear.

Getting There

Park at the second Endless Wall parking lot (Nuttall parking), and hike into the woods for maybe 5-10 minutes.  The first sign for climbers' access will lead you to a set of ladders that descends under the cliff.  Cirque is a short jaunt upstream from the ladders.

27 Total Climbs

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Location: R) The Cirque Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at R) The Cirque

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 78
The Warm-Up
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 22
New Life
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 24
Hourglass
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 44
Graffiti
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 7
Live and Let Live
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 38
Sloth
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 58
Finders Keepers
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 13
Superstition
Sport 2 pitches
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
 22
Skylore Engine
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 4
Baby Trebuchet
Sport
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
 8
Ride The Lightning
Sport
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
 5
Freedom Tree
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 12
Proper Soul
Sport
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
 3
The Crouch
Sport
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
 3
Trebuchet
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Warm-Up
 78
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
New Life
 22
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Hourglass
 24
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Graffiti
 44
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Live and Let Live
 7
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Sloth
 38
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Finders Keepers
 58
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Superstition
 13
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport 2 pitches
Skylore Engine
 22
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
Baby Trebuchet
 4
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
Ride The Lightning
 8
5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c Sport
Freedom Tree
 5
5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a Sport
Proper Soul
 12
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
The Crouch
 3
5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a Sport
Trebuchet
 3
5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b Sport
More Classic Climbs in R) The Cirque »

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