Type: Sport
FA: Brian McCray 1996
Page Views: 1,389 total · 18/month
Shared By: ChrisHau on Feb 13, 2018 · Updates
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Start with a thin and tricky sequence up blank rock to the high first bolt. Engage in another difficult section before a bolt or two of cruiser terrain. A couple of long moves lead to a small roof and the meat of the climb.

Only 15 feet remain, but they're brutal. Move dynamically around the roof and simultaneously pull your groin/labrum/hamstring to get established in the left-facing dihedral. Curse the lack of feet as you smear and swear your way up to an obvious anchor-clipping hold (which may or may not be a cruel disappointment).

Better climbers than me have half-jokingly called this route harder than Proper Soul. In any case, it's a true New River '13b', and a fine opportunity for character-building.

Location Suggest change

Just left of The Crouch (13d), identifiable by a letterbox slot around eight feet.

Protection Suggest change

Bolts to bolt anchor.

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