Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Anthony Meeks, Porter Jarrard, Ron Perrone 2009
Page Views: 5,819 total · 59/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 15, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Originally a two-pitch 5.12d ("Superstition"), this line was recently straightened with the addition of a few bolts, resulting in an epic line that climbs to the rim of the Cirque in one mega-pitch.

Begin as for Superstition, with boulder moves up a shallow, featured corner. At the 2nd bolt, move right, passing an impressive protruding block. Make a rising traverse along big flat edges to reach the high sloping ledge and a no-hands stance.

Sequential liebacking above the ledge leads to a roof-lip traverse, then more edges, eventually gaining the obvious pancake flake. Lieback up the flake to a pumpy rest. A big move above the flake leads to another rest and an all-out huck to a good jug. Shake again below the redpoint crux, a big reach to enter the black headwall. Easier moves snake up to the anchor.

1 60m rope will get you down.

This is currently the easiest free route to the top of the wall.

Location

Around the center of the Cirque, beginning as for Superstition, at an obvious, 1-foot-deep left-facing dihedral with jagged edges and slopers. There is another left-facing dihedral ~50' left of this one. This route climbs up to an obvious, 10'-high, multi-hued pancake flake ~70 feet up the wall.

Protection

10 bolts to 2 BA. Bring some longer draws/slings to mitigate rope drag on this wandering line. Stick clip the high first bolt.

Photos

Pnelson    
vimeo.com/25597018 Jun 16, 2017
christopher tabeling  
  5.13a
Careful with this route, it shatters egos and dreams of climbing hard, but for the best 13a in the country it's probably worth it! Oct 29, 2018