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Routes in R) The Cirque

Access "Fun" S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Blacklisted S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Canadian (variation), The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Crouch, The S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Finders Keepers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Freedom Tree S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Graffiti S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hasta La Vista S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hourglass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Live and Let Live S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lord Voldemort S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mr. McGoo S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nag S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Life S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Norse Code S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Power Lung S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Proper Soul S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Ride The Lightning S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Satanic Traverses S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Skylore Engine S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sloth S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Superstition S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trebuchet S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Warm-Up, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Where's Bulimia? T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Xanth S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Anthony Meeks, Porter Jarrard, Ron Perrone 2009
Page Views: 5,634 total · 58/month
Shared By: Monomaniac on Nov 15, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Originally a two-pitch 5.12d ("Superstition"), this line was recently straightened with the addition of a few bolts, resulting in an epic line that climbs to the rim of the Cirque in one mega-pitch.

Begin as for Superstition, with boulder moves up a shallow, featured corner. At the 2nd bolt, move right, passing an impressive protruding block. Make a rising traverse along big flat edges to reach the high sloping ledge and a no-hands stance.

Sequential liebacking above the ledge leads to a roof-lip traverse, then more edges, eventually gaining the obvious pancake flake. Lieback up the flake to a pumpy rest. A big move above the flake leads to another rest and an all-out huck to a good jug. Shake again below the redpoint crux, a big reach to enter the black headwall. Easier moves snake up to the anchor.

1 60m rope will get you down.

This is currently the easiest free route to the top of the wall.

Location

Around the center of the Cirque, beginning as for Superstition, at an obvious, 1-foot-deep left-facing dihedral with jagged edges and slopers. There is another left-facing dihedral ~50' left of this one. This route climbs up to an obvious, 10'-high, multi-hued pancake flake ~70 feet up the wall.

Protection

10 bolts to 2 BA. Bring some longer draws/slings to mitigate rope drag on this wandering line. Stick clip the high first bolt.

Photos

Pnelson    
vimeo.com/25597018 Jun 16, 2017

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