Avg: 4 from 25 votes
|Type:||Sport, 95 ft (29 m)|
|FA:||Anthony Meeks, Porter Jarrard, Ron Perrone 2009|
|Page Views:||8,079 total · 63/month|
|Shared By:||Monomaniac on Nov 15, 2010|
|Admins:||Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson|
Begin as for Superstition, with boulder moves up a shallow, featured corner. At the 2nd bolt, move right, passing an impressive protruding block. Make a rising traverse along big flat edges to reach the high sloping ledge and a no-hands stance.
Sequential liebacking above the ledge leads to a roof-lip traverse, then more edges, eventually gaining the obvious pancake flake. Lieback up the flake to a pumpy rest. A big move above the flake leads to another rest and an all-out huck to a good jug. Shake again below the redpoint crux, a big reach to enter the black headwall. Easier moves snake up to the anchor.
1 60m rope will get you down.
This is currently the easiest free route to the top of the wall.