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Routes in The Cirque

Access "Fun" S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Canadian (variation), The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Crouch, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Finders Keepers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Freedom Tree S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Graffiti S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hasta La Vista S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hourglass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Live and Let Live S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lord Voldemort S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mr. McGoo S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nag S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Life S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Norse Code S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Power Lung S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Proper Soul S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Ride The Lightning S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Satanic Traverses S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Skylore Engine S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Sloth S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Superstition S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trebuchet S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Warm-Up, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Where's Bulimia? T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Brad Nelson
Page Views: 390 total, 55/month
Shared By: ChrisHau on May 10, 2017
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

A beautiful route that is only overshadowed because it's a variation to an even more beautiful route.

Jaunt up the intro and dihedral crux of Proper Soul (14a), with the bad feet and slopey, powerful movement that characterize that section.

Climb into the shared rest, but instead of clipping the long draw for the traverse crux on Proper, hang a hard left to a clip at the base of the vertical, gleaming white billboard. Perform a tenuous and condition-dependent face crux on jagged crimps, culminating in a long reach to a sloper (it seems prudent to skip the clip in the middle of the face, which would lead to a long but safe fall). Do one more precision reach to get established in an undercling.

Relax as you move through two more bolts of easier climbing, trending left into an often-wet streak before coming back into the line at a monstrous flake jug. Engage in the proverbial shake-until-your-belayer-is-asleep rest, and then execute the heartbreaker crux - long reaches on steep stone between slot edges, and then a dyno to the very top of the cliff.

Location

Shares the obvious dihedral of Proper Soul (14a) on the left end of the Cirque. Branches left after the dihedral through the white face.

Protection

Bolts with Mammut square-cut hangers, fixed gear.

Photos

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