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Routes in The Cirque

Access "Fun" S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Canadian (variation), The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Crouch, The S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Finders Keepers S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Freedom Tree S 5.13d 8b 31 X 32 E8 7a
Graffiti S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hasta La Vista S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Hourglass S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Live and Let Live S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Lord Voldemort S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Mr. McGoo S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Nag S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
New Life S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Norse Code S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Power Lung S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Proper Soul S 5.14a 8b+ 32 X+ 32 E8 7a
Ride The Lightning S 5.13b/c 8a+ 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Satanic Traverses S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Skylore Engine S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Sloth S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Superstition S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Trebuchet S 5.14b 8c 33 X+ 33 E9 7b
Warm-Up, The S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Where's Bulimia? T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Chris Lindner
Page Views: 512 total · 20/month
Shared By: ChrisHau on Nov 26, 2015
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

An amazing route, featuring some of the wildest moves you'll ever pull on rope.

The sustained 5.12 climbing to the crux at around fifty feet doesn't feature any smackdown moves, but slowly ramps up in difficulty until you hit the crux. Expect crossovers between side pulls and an occasional long reach here and there.

At the crux, the wall blanks out, and you'll realize why it took until 2008 for this route to get an ascent. Grab a good left-handed blocky edge, pick from a variety of right-hand intermediates, paste your feet, and throw for a sloped edge that seems astronomically far away.

After a match and one more move, you arrive at a sloping ledge where you can collect yourself. Next comes the "crouch" move, which starts with you establishing on a good pocket and a small gaston. The one-arm dyno to the flat jug above will be one of the most crowd-pleasing moves you'll ever pull.

After getting a little shake, proceed to a redpoint crux involving techy crimps and a powerful gaston to establish at the base of the roof. Enjoy the airy shakeout, then pull one last long move to the top of the cliff.

Location

Right of Xanth (13b)

Protection

Permadraws from second bolt onwards.

Photos

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ChrisHau
  5.14a
ChrisHau  
  5.14a