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Routes in Honeymooner's Area

Bonemaster Gear Fling, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Channel Zero S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Color Blind T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Crescent Moon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crimes of Fashion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead Ráibéad T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Double Feature S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Flat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Get Thee Behind Me Satan S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Harlequin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Gleason Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jesus and Tequila S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Libertine S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lunar Debris T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moonraker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muckraker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quinsana Plus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rabbit Almost Died, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rainy Day Route S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sacrilege S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Satanic Verses S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Southern Hospitality T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Walking on the Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wire Train T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: John Scott, Dave Groth- 1988
Page Views: 6,397 total, 60/month
Shared By: ChanVan Schaack on Apr 4, 2009
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Stick clip the first bolt and start from the top of the boulder by leaning across the gap to reach the first holds. Once established on the face, climb up and around to the right of the arete and back to the left side to clip the 2nd bolt. From here, work up the left side of the arete to the 5th bolt. Clipping the 5th bolt is difficult and much easier if the draws are hung. The crux begins at the 5th bolt. Utilize several crimps and find a way to gain the positive hold above at the base of a shallow dihedral. From here, continue up the dihedral, make a long move and continue up the next dihedral to reach the overhang. Make the final clip and find the crimp above to work out left a bit and follow a few positive slopers to the finish (redpoint crux).

There is a good 11d that starts on Sacrilege to the left, and then takes a hand traverse into the upper third dihedral of Jesus and Tequila. I did this the other day; you start traversing right when you are below the fixed pin on Sacrilege, and it's a really good route!

Location

On the arete to climber's left of the Quinsana roof- there's a big boulder that you lean over to the wall from to start- rap down or walk over to the ladder

Protection

9 bolts and a 2 bolt anchor

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