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Routes in Honeymooner's Area

Bonemaster Gear Fling, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Channel Zero S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Color Blind T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Crescent Moon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crimes of Fashion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead Ráibéad T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Double Feature S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Flat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Get Thee Behind Me Satan S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Harlequin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Gleason Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jesus and Tequila S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Libertine S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lunar Debris T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moonraker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muckraker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quinsana Plus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rabbit Almost Died, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rainy Day Route S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sacrilege S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Satanic Verses S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Southern Hospitality T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Walking on the Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wire Train T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Mike Artz, Stanley Todd, 1985
Page Views: 2,159 total, 19/month
Shared By: Jeff Mekolites on May 27, 2008
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Climb the widening, arching crack located just downstream of the Honeymooners Ladders. A few off-width moves mixed with some "arete" climbing, laybacking...you will need it all.

Protection

Take some big gear. I took a 4 and 5 and used both of them. Wouldn't have minded another 5, so I didn't have to walk it up so far. Rings at the top.
Foster Tucker
Morgantown, West Virginia
  5.7+
Foster Tucker   Morgantown, West Virginia
  5.7+
Awesome climb, definitely a little tricky for the grade. The crack never becomes wider than a #6, so if you have cams up to that size and some smaller cams for the horizontals you can make it pretty safe. If you happen to have doubles from #3 to #5/#6 you can make it safer than a sport climb. 7 days ago
Matt Thomas  
 
Great climb. I thought all the horizontal placements were pretty bad. If leading this again, I would take only a #3, two or three #4s, and two #5s. On lead 30' above your last pro it's comforting to wedge yourself in the crack but climbs easier if you stay on the edge. Nov 3, 2015
OLD SCHOOL 5.7 CLASSIC! You'll feel like you're dragging the kitchen sink behind you considering the gear it takes to make it safe, but it does gear up. Bring a few mid to small cams, and look for couple trick tri-cams if you're so inclined. For those looking to dial in their off-width and chicken wing technique, this is a great choice. If your technique is off its going to feel a bit more like a bar fight than a classic route, but once you get dialed in, its quite the adventure. Apr 26, 2012
justin Jakimiak
Plainwell, MI
  5.7 PG13
justin Jakimiak   Plainwell, MI
  5.7 PG13
I wouldnt attempt this route unless you have at least doubles on #4, #4.5, #5 Camalots. it is possible to stitch it up tighter than a $1200 Armani suit but it takes some huge gear, i only found 2 horizontal placements, as amazing an experience as this climb was, it was a wreckless choice for my third trad lead in retrospect.
bring big gear and enjoy :) Nov 5, 2011
mbuntaine
Santa Barbara, CA
  5.7+ PG13
mbuntaine   Santa Barbara, CA
  5.7+ PG13
This is a great climb, but unless you have a #5, it can be pretty scary at the top. The horizontals that can be used for smaller gear run out about 30 feet below the anchors. Up to that point, it protects reasonably well with a rack to 3" Sep 6, 2010