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Routes in Honeymooner's Area

Bonemaster Gear Fling, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Channel Zero S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Color Blind T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Crescent Moon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crimes of Fashion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead Ráibéad T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Double Feature S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Flat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Get Thee Behind Me Satan S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Harlequin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Gleason Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jesus and Tequila S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Libertine S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lunar Debris T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moonraker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muckraker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quinsana Plus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rabbit Almost Died, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rainy Day Route S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sacrilege S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Satanic Verses S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Walking on the Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wire Train T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Doug Reed (1993)
Page Views: 1,284 total, 17/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Nov 5, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Description

The movement on "Satanic Verses" might just be good enough that its worth ignoring the copious amount of glue. Judging from the plethora of reinforced crimps, Doug Reed must have been really desperate to bolt a route that eclipsed the 13- grade. The result was a technical power endurance masterpiece.

Begin with some easy climbing to a good rest below a roof. Once fully prepared grab some crimps, swing your feet and start to funk your way up the steep dihedral. Long reaches between tiny glued on crimps are made possible with some ridiculous drop knees. At the end of the dihedral battle out the roof and pull on to a spectacular arete. A minor shake prepares you for the technical crux.

The arete crux is like no other arete move I have ever done, making it hard to describe, so you'll just have to experience it for yourself. If given a boulder grade it would be around V7. Once through the crux cop another rest and then wobble your way up through four more bolts of solid 5.12 arete climbing. The climbing is tenuous with few foot holds and flawless stone (no glue on the arete).

This route is a precious commodity at the NRG. It is one of the few routes that has a grueling power endurance section. Originally the upper arete was part of a Porter Jarrard link up that started on "Jesus and Tequila." Reed added the direct dihedral start.

Location

Located just to the left of the tiger striped wall of "Quinsana Plus."

Protection

11 bolts + anchor

Photos

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