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Satanic Verses
5.13c YDS 8a+ French 30 Ewbanks X- UIAA 31 ZA E7 7a British
Avg: 4 from 7
votes
Routes in I) Honeymooner's Area
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Bonemaster Gear Fling, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a |
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Channel Zero S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Color Blind T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R |
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Crescent Moon T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Crimes of Fashion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Dead Ráibéad T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13 |
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Double Feature S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Double Flat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Free Flow S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Get Thee Behind Me Satan S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Harlequin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Jackie Gleason Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Jesus and Tequila S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Libertine S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Lunar Debris T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Moonraker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Muckraker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Noelle T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Oblivion S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Open Mouths T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Quinsana Plus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Rabbit Almost Died, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rainy Day Route S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Sacrilege S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Satanic Verses S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a |
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Sensual Tickle T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Southern Hospitality T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Static Line T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Walking on the Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Wire Train T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 100 ft (30 m) |
| GPS: | 38.05426, -81.05828 |
| FA: | Doug Reed (1993) |
| Page Views: | 3,791 total · 22/month |
| Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Nov 5, 2011 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS.
Details
Description
The movement on "Satanic Verses" might just be good enough that its worth ignoring the copious amount of glue. Judging from the plethora of reinforced crimps, Doug Reed must have been really desperate to bolt a route that eclipsed the 13- grade. The result was a technical power endurance masterpiece.
Begin with some easy climbing to a good rest below a roof. Once fully prepared grab some crimps, swing your feet and start to funk your way up the steep dihedral. Long reaches between tiny glued on crimps are made possible with some ridiculous drop knees. At the end of the dihedral battle out the roof and pull on to a spectacular arete. A minor shake prepares you for the technical crux.
The arete crux is like no other arete move I have ever done, making it hard to describe, so you'll just have to experience it for yourself. If given a boulder grade it would be around V7. Once through the crux cop another rest and then wobble your way up through four more bolts of solid 5.12 arete climbing. The climbing is tenuous with few foot holds and flawless stone (no glue on the arete).
This route is a precious commodity at the NRG. It is one of the few routes that has a grueling power endurance section. Originally the upper arete was part of a Porter Jarrard link up that started on "Jesus and Tequila." Reed added the direct dihedral start.
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