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Routes in I) Honeymooner's Area

Bonemaster Gear Fling, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Channel Zero S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Color Blind T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Crescent Moon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crimes of Fashion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead Ráibéad T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Double Feature S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Flat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Get Thee Behind Me Satan S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Harlequin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Gleason Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jesus and Tequila S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Libertine S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lunar Debris T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moonraker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muckraker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quinsana Plus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rabbit Almost Died, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rainy Day Route S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sacrilege S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Satanic Verses S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Southern Hospitality T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Walking on the Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wire Train T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Porter Jarrard
Page Views: 975 total · 13/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Nov 10, 2012
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Description

Libertine can be thought of as “Face Climbing 101.” It travels up the black and white speckled wall past a selection of in-cut crimps and slimpers. The route requires the full gamut of face climbing skills, and almost every move requires either a highstep or backstep as you lock off from one crimp to the next. From the ground, and even while climbing on the route it can be very difficult to spot hand holds, but it is all there, including a variety of intermediates for shorter climbers.

Begin by stick clipping the high first bolt and gliding through good holds on orange rock. The technical crux awaits you right at the first bolt where you must make a long reach and then negotiate a small roof. From here the climbing lets up for a few bolts but still requires technical footwork. Rest up at a good horizontal break before embarking on the most sustained section of the route. Crimp and highstep your way through a series of crisp edges being sure to save enough energy for the final hard move. Clip the final bolt and then quickly decide how to navigate to a slopey ledge. Finish by climbing a few more easy moves to the anchor.

Libertine bakes in the sun for most of the day. It is best saved for a cool cloudy day. This route is fun because it is more sustained than your average NRG route and it doesn’t feature a typical stopper crux. A route called "Oblivion" branches off left at the third bolt.

Location

Just around the Corner from Quinsana Plus. Starts on Orange Rock in front of a giant Boulder.

Protection

7 Bolts + Anchor

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