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Routes in Honeymooner's Area

Bonemaster Gear Fling, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Channel Zero S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Color Blind T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Crescent Moon T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Crimes of Fashion T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Dead Ráibéad T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b PG13
Double Feature S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Double Flat S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Get Thee Behind Me Satan S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Harlequin S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Jackie Gleason Flake, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jesus and Tequila S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Libertine S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Lunar Debris T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Moonraker T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Muckraker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Quinsana Plus S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Rabbit Almost Died, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rainy Day Route S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sacrilege S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Satanic Verses S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Southern Hospitality T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Walking on the Moon T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Wire Train T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mike Williams
Page Views: 765 total, 17/month
Shared By: camhead on Apr 23, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Writing in chalk Details

Description

Really cool and heady route that climbs one of the "last great faces" of Endless Wall. The FAist originally scoped out this line, and planned to bolt a slightly different variation of it into a harder sport climb, but the NPS denied his application to bolt it on account of some lichen at the top of the route. So now, instead of a sport line, we have another great addition to the NRG's lineup of hard, gear-protected faces.

Start by soloing the corner to its right for 15-20 feet, up to a ledge that is not as good as it looks from the ground. Place a bomber 00 tcu from the corner in a horizontal, make some tenuous moves right to another good horizontal, a bomber .3 camalot, and a creaky flake. Rest up here, you'll need it– the next 25 feet are the crux! From this stance, make some reachy moves off tiny holds up the blank orange face, placing a 1 ballnut along the way. At a decent left crimp you can build a mini-anchor out of a 2 ballnut and a 000 c3, which will protect the crux throw from one crimp to another. After this, the climbing gradually eases up, trends left, gets great gear, and you get to a really good rest jug. Above this rest jug is more sequential 5.12a/b climbing on sloping pockets, about 20 feet above bomber gear.

The FA gave this climb an R safety rating because of the tiny gear under hard moves, and because of the intricacy of the placements, but if you suss this out on rappel (easily accessed from the nearby Honeymooners Ladders), it is not too bad. An onsight attempt by anyone whose limit is 5.13 would be VERY serious, however, and possibly dangerous.

Location

The obvious orange face that is facing you just on your left as you climb down the honeymooners ladder, between The Rabbit Almost Died and Crescent Moon.

Protection

One or two each of the smallest ballnuts, 000 c3, 00 tcu, two each from .3 to .75 camalot. No anchor.

Photos

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Pnelson    
youtu.be/k6GWrq8WMcM Jun 16, 2017