Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Porter Jarrard (1988)
Page Views: 1,503 total · 17/month
Shared By: Fred Gomez on Aug 22, 2011
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Description

According to guidebook author Mike Williams, Sacrilege is said to have the "hardest 12b move you'll ever encounter." Its hard to disagree with him after experiencing the move.

Begin by stepping across from the large boulder to some small crimps. The first move is anything but trivial, but you'll soon be sauntering up engaging 5.11 face climbing. Its a good idea to stick clip the second bolt and leave the first unclipped so you don't slam your belayer against the wall when you inevitably fall at the crux.

I don't want to give too much away, but the crux is a desperate low angle move. Its best to wait until these holds are in the shade before tackling the crux. Keep your head together for the finish which consists of fun tenuous moves on slopers.

Location

From the honeymoon ladders walk climbers left for a couple hundred feet until you pass the black and orange streaked Quinsans Plus. Just around the corner you will find the large boulder that you start on.

Protection

8 bolts + anchor

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