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> I) Honeymooner's Area
Sacrilege
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3.5 from 34 votes
Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
FA: | Doug Reed, Porter Jarrard 1988 |
Page Views: | 3,300 total · 20/month |
Shared By: | Fred Gomez on Aug 22, 2011 · Updates |
Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
According to guidebook author Mike Williams, Sacrilege is said to have the "hardest 12b move you'll ever encounter." Its hard to disagree with him after experiencing the move.
Begin by stepping across from the large boulder to some small crimps. The first move is anything but trivial, but you'll soon be sauntering up engaging 5.11 face climbing. Its a good idea to stick clip the second bolt and leave the first unclipped so you don't slam your belayer against the wall when you inevitably fall at the crux.
I don't want to give too much away, but the crux is a desperate low angle move. Its best to wait until these holds are in the shade before tackling the crux. Keep your head together for the finish which consists of fun tenuous moves on slopers.
Begin by stepping across from the large boulder to some small crimps. The first move is anything but trivial, but you'll soon be sauntering up engaging 5.11 face climbing. Its a good idea to stick clip the second bolt and leave the first unclipped so you don't slam your belayer against the wall when you inevitably fall at the crux.
I don't want to give too much away, but the crux is a desperate low angle move. Its best to wait until these holds are in the shade before tackling the crux. Keep your head together for the finish which consists of fun tenuous moves on slopers.
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