Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Tom and Sharon Clancey, Bob Cenk, Mark Van Cura 1990
Page Views: 4,383 total · 32/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 18, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route

95 Opinions

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This is a great long sport route, probably one of the longest single pitch sport routes at the New, and it's only 5.9! The lower portion is the crux. Climb the face straight up to reach a short flake system. Follow this to the end and continue over small overhangs to the finish.


Start in the middle of the Kaymoor Slab.


13 bolts. If you really wanted to, you could supplement it with gear, but it's not at all necessary. No anchors at the top since a 70M rope would not reach the ground. Anchors can be found by walking along the cliff top and using one of the other sets of anchors for the other routes here.


Carson City, NV
aribtraryusername   Carson City, NV
2nd bolt maybe too high--risk of hitting ledge if you blow it before 2nd, esp. if heavier than belayer. since bolts 1-2 are crux, if at limit take a yellow alien for horizontal in between. up higher, if you break R for the flake system too soon, you'll miss a bolt unless over 6' to reach back and clip. but can protect with orange metolius and grey alien behind the flake. Oct 24, 2016
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
Superb route! I'm pretty timid and brought the supplemental gear, but I felt fine not placing it and felt like it would have been pretty pumpy to stop and place it before the second bolt. I might not recommend this to someone as their first 9 lead though.
On the descent, after messing around trying to find rap bolts we could reach on Kaymoor Slab, we strolled over to Diamond Point (about 90 seconds) and rapped down the totally amazing looking line of Remission. Super quick and easy. There is another set of bolts right next to those too, which might be relevant since I bet Remission sees a lot of traffic (although we had the whole place to ourselves!). May 3, 2018
Ian Fenimore
Ian Fenimore   Pennsylvania
Awesome route, if you can climb 5.9 you won't fall at the second bolt. No need for gear, but bring a good head if you lead it, there are some fairly long runouts on easier climbing. May 14, 2018