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Routes in E) Kaymoor Slabs

A Date with Disappointment S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fool Effect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Newd Scientist T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pudd's Purty Dress S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Que's Jook Joint S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat's Alley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhythm of Movement T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slab-O-Meat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Totally-Clipse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upheaval, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Villain's Course S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Walking in Your Footsteps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Wimpy, Wimpy, Wimpy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
With a Little Help from My Friends S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
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Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Tom and Sharon Clancey, Bob Cenk, Mark Van Cura 1990
Page Views: 4,208 total · 31/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Oct 18, 2007
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

This is a great long sport route, probably one of the longest single pitch sport routes at the New, and it's only 5.9! The lower portion is the crux. Climb the face straight up to reach a short flake system. Follow this to the end and continue over small overhangs to the finish.

Location

Start in the middle of the Kaymoor Slab.

Protection

13 bolts. If you really wanted to, you could supplement it with gear, but it's not at all necessary. No anchors at the top since a 70M rope would not reach the ground. Anchors can be found by walking along the cliff top and using one of the other sets of anchors for the other routes here.

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aribtraryusername
Carson City, NV
aribtraryusername   Carson City, NV
2nd bolt maybe too high--risk of hitting ledge if you blow it before 2nd, esp. if heavier than belayer. since bolts 1-2 are crux, if at limit take a yellow alien for horizontal in between. up higher, if you break R for the flake system too soon, you'll miss a bolt unless over 6' to reach back and clip. but can protect with orange metolius and grey alien behind the flake. Oct 24, 2016
Optimistic
New Paltz
Optimistic   New Paltz
Superb route! I'm pretty timid and brought the supplemental gear, but I felt fine not placing it and felt like it would have been pretty pumpy to stop and place it before the second bolt. I might not recommend this to someone as their first 9 lead though.
On the descent, after messing around trying to find rap bolts we could reach on Kaymoor Slab, we strolled over to Diamond Point (about 90 seconds) and rapped down the totally amazing looking line of Remission. Super quick and easy. There is another set of bolts right next to those too, which might be relevant since I bet Remission sees a lot of traffic (although we had the whole place to ourselves!). May 3, 2018
Ian Fenimore  
 
Awesome route, if you can climb 5.9 you won't fall at the second bolt. No need for gear, but bring a good head if you lead it, there are some fairly long runouts on easier climbing. May 14, 2018

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