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Rhythm of Movement
5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in E) Kaymoor Slabs
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A Date with Disappointment S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Fool Effect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Newd Scientist T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Pudd's Pretty Dress S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Que's Jook Joint S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rat's Alley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rhythm of Movement T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Slab-O-Meat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Totally-Clipse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Upheaval, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Villain's Course S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Walking in Your Footsteps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Wimpy, Wimpy, Wimpy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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With a Little Help from My Friends S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 38.05426, -81.06106 |
| FA: | Eddie Begoon, Bob Rentka 1990 |
| Page Views: | 793 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Pnelson on Nov 21, 2017 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS.
Details
All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.
Description
Do the first few moves off the ground of Rat's Alley (5.7 corner crack) before stepping up and right into an obvious undercling flake. You can protect this flake, or just make a couple traversing moves to the first bolt (this bolt marks the beginning of a straight-up 11c).
Move directly right to another bolt and toward an arete, and then straight up on sharp crimps that probably won't be chalked (crux). At the next horizontal, figure out how to use both sides of the arete to stand up. From here, it's mostly intricate face climbing on the right side of the arete up perfect marbled "brain" rock. Great mixed line.
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