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Routes in E) Kaymoor Slabs

A Date with Disappointment S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fool Effect S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Newd Scientist T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Pudd's Purty Dress S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Que's Jook Joint S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rat's Alley T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rhythm of Movement T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Slab-O-Meat S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Totally-Clipse S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Upheaval, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Villain's Course S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Walking in Your Footsteps T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Wimpy, Wimpy, Wimpy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
With a Little Help from My Friends S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Eddie Begoon, Bob Rentka 1990
Page Views: 39 total · 4/month
Shared By: Pnelson on Nov 21, 2017
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Do the first few moves off the ground of Rat's Alley (5.7 corner crack) before stepping up and right into an obvious undercling flake. You can protect this flake, or just make a couple traversing moves to the first bolt (this bolt marks the beginning of a straight-up 11c).

Move directly right to another bolt and toward an arete, and then straight up on sharp crimps that probably won't be chalked (crux). At the next horizontal, figure out how to use both sides of the arete to stand up. From here, it's mostly intricate face climbing on the right side of the arete up perfect marbled "brain" rock. Great mixed line.

Location

Two routes right of Rat's Alley, the popular 5.7 corner crack at the far right end of the Kaymoor Slabs area.

Protection

Two bolts, and a healthy selection of TCU's and stoppers. Tree anchor.

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