Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Eddie Begoon, Bob Rentka 1990
Page Views: 48 total · 4/month
Shared By: Pnelson on Nov 21, 2017
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

Do the first few moves off the ground of Rat's Alley (5.7 corner crack) before stepping up and right into an obvious undercling flake. You can protect this flake, or just make a couple traversing moves to the first bolt (this bolt marks the beginning of a straight-up 11c).

Move directly right to another bolt and toward an arete, and then straight up on sharp crimps that probably won't be chalked (crux). At the next horizontal, figure out how to use both sides of the arete to stand up. From here, it's mostly intricate face climbing on the right side of the arete up perfect marbled "brain" rock. Great mixed line.

Location

Two routes right of Rat's Alley, the popular 5.7 corner crack at the far right end of the Kaymoor Slabs area.

Protection

Two bolts, and a healthy selection of TCU's and stoppers. Tree anchor.

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