PRINT: Rock Climb Legacy, The New River Gorge Region

Legacy

5.11a, Sport, 90 ft (27 m),

Avg: 3.9 from 461 votes
FA: Doug Reed, Bob Rentka 1990
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall > J) Snake Buttress

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

Beautiful route! Lots of big reaches to good holds down low leads to a small roof. pull the roof and begin the right arching crack line. keep trending right on crimps and up to next roof. here you have an option to continue right and finish straight up to make the route 11a, or trend left on a different line of bolts for the 11d finish. No distiguishable crux on this route with good rests at each bolt.

Location

The more beautiful neighbor to the right of Discombobulated (11a).

Protection

10 bolts to bolted anchor.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Ben moving to the anchors of Legacy

Joe Dyno

Legacy First roof.

Rosaleen at the clip

Killer route.

Legacy (5.11a) 7/2013

Justin at the top.

Rosaleen pulling the first roof

Dan heading over roof

Joe getting ready to make some moves

Dr. Morrison getting started

Jennifer gettin' some

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

John Gassel
Boulder, CO

5.11a

Do this route! Awesome, varied movement on a beautiful piece of rock. Although it's a sport route, I found that it climbed a lot like a bolted trad route.

It starts with some impeccable face climbing for the first few bolts. I was able to reach some better holds at 5'11" than my girlfriend was at 5'5", which made getting to the first bolt a bit easier.

Solid crack climbers should cruise the dihedral in the middle. Judging by the chalk, it looks like it's possible (or at least attempted) by some on small crimps through that section too.

Make some tough moves getting into the next roof section. If you're not too pumped by the end, make a few last hard moves to the chains and soak in the awesome view from the top.

My new favorite sport pitch. Full value! May 26, 2015

Russ Keane
Salt Lake

5.10c/d

Awesome route. Doesn't really have an 11 move but it's sustained 10 and gets pumpy. Is this thing possible to clean on the lower? Be prepared to have someone follow and clean. Nov 27, 2019

Chris Sands
Newark, DE

5.11a

find the double kneebar rest in the middle, pretty clutch for the pump Oct 25, 2020

Ian C
MA

agreed the cleaning from above is a giant PITA. better to have someone follow and clean. Aug 2, 2021

Tyler KC
Fayetteville AR/WV/NC

IMO: Best of the grade in the country May 8, 2022

Stoked Weekend Warrior
Red Rocks in my dream

Dreamy route. Sustained and varied, no filler move. Especially awesome for onsighting since the rests are really good if you bring a full bag of tricks, including but not limited to route reading, thin face climbing, hand jam, finger lock, lieback, stem, roof pulling, knee bar Apr 9, 2024