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Elevation: 1,645 ft
GPS: 38.2338, -80.8552
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 147,541 total · 727/month
Shared By: Ladd Raine on Aug 18, 2007
Admins: Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson

Description Suggest change

An excellent climbing area. Deep-water soloing is available during the warmer months when the water is up. From October - April the water is usually down and you some incredible sport and trad routes are displayed.

An easy approach and can be quite crowded on weekends. There is a lot of route development going on here so make sure you are on the correct route.

The link below can be used to see the levels of the water.

lrh-wc.usace.army.mil/wm/?b…

Don Miron, Masuko, Noanmeyet, Bongo, Cowboy, Gimme a Clown, Blaze, Mojo are accessible when the level is at 1625 or less. At 1625 most of the other routes are all still inaccessible. At 1620, the other routes are accessible. You'll have to rock hop through a muddy section, but no wading.

Getting There Suggest change

Turn off the Whippoorwhill road to the left from rt. 19 (heading north from Fayetteville).  Stay off of private drives as the road bends to the right then turns to a dirt road bending left.  Park here, hike down the dirt road and trend left down a gully to the crag/lake. There is a lot of private property adjacent to this approach and landowners are NOT psyched on climbers trespassing.  Please be respectful, stay off private property, and pick up some trash on your way out.

76 Total Climbs

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Location: Whippoorwill Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Whippoorwill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 142
Aimee's Ewer's
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 178
Bongo
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 195
Wendy's Arete
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 169
Cowboy in the Dirt
Sport, TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 40
Holy Mackerel
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 154
Gimme a Clown
Sport, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 81
Whinerlamer
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 77
Straight Outta Lockmont
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 31
Johnny Bravo
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 148
Latch Key Kids
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 220
Masuko
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 78
Nonameyet
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 59
Flounder
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 25
Jason and the Arguenuts
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 12
Rehab
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Aimee's Ewer's
 142
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Bongo
 178
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Wendy's Arete
 195
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport, TR
Cowboy in the Dirt
 169
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Holy Mackerel
 40
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Gimme a Clown
 154
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport, TR
Whinerlamer
 81
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Straight Outta Lockmont
 77
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Johnny Bravo
 31
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Latch Key Kids
 148
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Masuko
 220
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Nonameyet
 78
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Flounder
 59
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Jason and the Arguenuts
 25
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Rehab
 12
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Whippoorwill »

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