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Routes in Whippoorwill

28 Weeks Later S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
After Forever S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aimee's Jugs S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back to the Known S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bender S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blaze Got a New Job S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blimey S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bongo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charlotte Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ching, Chang, Chong S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cowboy Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cowboy in the Dirt S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Don Miron S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
East Meck Shoot Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fishbone S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Flight of the Kiwi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flounder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gimme a Clown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hat Change S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Holy Mackerel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
How Could Hell Be Any Worse? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Arguenots S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Java T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jay's Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Johnny Bravo T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jowiki S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Latch Key Kids S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Logos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Masuko S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Max Payne S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mojo Jojo Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Morse Code S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mythos T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nonameyet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pat-Agonia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pondless S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Raw Milk S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Rehab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
SIN S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Six Gun Serenade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Straight Outta Lockmont S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tacos Pescados S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unholy Mackerel T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unnamed crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wafer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waverly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wendy's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Where have All the Gay Cowboys Gone? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whinerlamer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

An excellent climbing area. Deep-water soloing is available during the warmer months when the water is up. From October - April the water is usually down and you some incredible sport and trad routes are displayed.

An easy approach and can be quite crowded on weekends. There is a lot of route development going on here so make sure you are on the correct route.

The link below can be used to see the levels of the water.

lrh-wc.usace.army.mil/wm/?b…

Don Miron, Masuko, Noanmeyet, Bongo, Cowboy, Gimme a Clown, Blaze, Mojo are accessible when the level is at 1625 or less. At 1625 most of the other routes are all still inaccessible. At 1620, the other routes are accessible. You'll have to rock hop through a muddy section, but no wading.

Getting There

Take Whippoorwill road follow paved road almost to the end, take a left and park then follow the dirt road until you reach a fork (bonfire pit) take a left and go down into the cliff breakdown to reach the start for many climbs.

50 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Whippoorwill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 66
Aimee's Jugs
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 82
Bongo
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 90
Wendy's Jugs
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 83
Cowboy in the Dirt
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 21
Holy Mackerel
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Johnny Bravo
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 81
Gimme a Clown
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 39
Straight Outta Lockmont
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 26
Whinerlamer
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 30
Ching, Chang, Chong
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 72
Latch Key Kids
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 105
Masuko
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 31
Nonameyet
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 27
Flounder
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 15
Bender
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Aimee's Jugs
 66
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Bongo
 82
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Wendy's Jugs
 90
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Cowboy in the Dirt
 83
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Holy Mackerel
 21
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Johnny Bravo
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Gimme a Clown
 81
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Straight Outta Lockmont
 39
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Whinerlamer
 26
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Ching, Chang, Chong
 30
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Latch Key Kids
 72
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Masuko
 105
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Nonameyet
 31
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Flounder
 27
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bender
 15
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Whippoorwill »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
amarius
Nowhere, OK
amarius   Nowhere, OK
Don Miron, Masuko, Nonmeyet, Bongo, Cowboy, Gimme a Clown, Blaze, Mojo are open at Summersville Lake Pool level of 1625ft. Some traditional climbs might be open as well.
Path leading to Amy/Wendy is under water at this level

Edit - fixed typo, thanks! Oct 21, 2014
zachj F  
There are several new routes up on the Aimee's Jugs/Wendy's Jugs wall. I will provide some details here based on the reports I have received, but if someone has better info please expand on this:

5.10a(?) - About 3ft L of Wendy's Jugs - harder moves to first two bolts then great holds on overhanging route to the top. I believe it is 6 bolts to its own set of anchors.

5.8 - About 2 ft R of Aimee's Jugs. I believe it is shorter and fewer bolts than Aimee's Jugs. Has its own set of anchors.

5.10+ - Starts just L from Straight outta Lockmont (5.9) under smallish roof. Climbs up dirty face to cool pockets and small roof. Not sure on the number of bolts, but has its own anchors.

5.11+ - Climbs just L of this new 5.10+. Similar start and then detours L around first bolt. Not sure on number of bolts or anchors. Feb 29, 2016
Slartibartfast
Magrathea
Slartibartfast   Magrathea
At what water level is everything accessible? Sep 14, 2017
From what I've been told 1625' is the mark. I was there last weekend when the army corps site said 1622' and it was accessible. He's the water level link.

lrh-wc.usace.army.mil/wm/?b…


Also, I know the odds are low, but I was deep water soloing with my go pro black this summer and it snapped off the bracket and sank. Now that the water levels have dropped, if anyone finds it could you please let me know. I'm glad to pay you a finders fee. Oct 26, 2017

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