Access Issue: Writing in chalk Details

Description

An excellent climbing area. Deep-water soloing is available during the warmer months when the water is up. From October - April the water is usually down and you some incredible sport and trad routes are displayed.

An easy approach and can be quite crowded on weekends. There is a lot of route development going on here so make sure you are on the correct route.

The link below can be used to see the levels of the water.

lrh-wc.usace.army.mil/wm/?b…

Don Miron, Masuko, Noanmeyet, Bongo, Cowboy, Gimme a Clown, Blaze, Mojo are accessible when the level is at 1625 or less. At 1625 most of the other routes are all still inaccessible. At 1620, the other routes are accessible. You'll have to rock hop through a muddy section, but no wading.

Getting There

Take Whippoorwill road follow paved road almost to the end, take a left and park then follow the dirt road until you reach a fork (bonfire pit) take a left and go down into the cliff breakdown to reach the start for many climbs.

50 Total Climbs

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Location: Whippoorwill Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Whippoorwill

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 67
Aimee's Jugs
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 86
Bongo
Sport
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 93
Wendy's Jugs
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 86
Cowboy in the Dirt
Sport
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 23
Holy Mackerel
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 84
Gimme a Clown
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 34
Whinerlamer
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 40
Straight Outta Lockmont
Sport
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 32
Ching, Chang, Chong
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 9
Johnny Bravo
Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 75
Latch Key Kids
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 108
Masuko
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 35
Nonameyet
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
Flounder
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 16
Bender
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Aimee's Jugs
 67
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport
Bongo
 86
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Wendy's Jugs
 93
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Sport
Cowboy in the Dirt
 86
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Holy Mackerel
 23
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Gimme a Clown
 84
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Whinerlamer
 34
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Straight Outta Lockmont
 40
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Ching, Chang, Chong
 32
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Johnny Bravo
 9
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Latch Key Kids
 75
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Masuko
 108
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Nonameyet
 35
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Flounder
 28
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Bender
 16
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Whippoorwill »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

High
 
Low
 
Precip
 
Days w Precip
 
Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
amarius
Nowhere, OK
amarius   Nowhere, OK
Don Miron, Masuko, Nonmeyet, Bongo, Cowboy, Gimme a Clown, Blaze, Mojo are open at Summersville Lake Pool level of 1625ft. Some traditional climbs might be open as well.
Path leading to Amy/Wendy is under water at this level

Edit - fixed typo, thanks! Oct 21, 2014
zachj F  
There are several new routes up on the Aimee's Jugs/Wendy's Jugs wall. I will provide some details here based on the reports I have received, but if someone has better info please expand on this:

5.10a(?) - About 3ft L of Wendy's Jugs - harder moves to first two bolts then great holds on overhanging route to the top. I believe it is 6 bolts to its own set of anchors.

5.8 - About 2 ft R of Aimee's Jugs. I believe it is shorter and fewer bolts than Aimee's Jugs. Has its own set of anchors.

5.10+ - Starts just L from Straight outta Lockmont (5.9) under smallish roof. Climbs up dirty face to cool pockets and small roof. Not sure on the number of bolts, but has its own anchors.

5.11+ - Climbs just L of this new 5.10+. Similar start and then detours L around first bolt. Not sure on number of bolts or anchors. Feb 29, 2016
Slartibartfast
Magrathea
Slartibartfast   Magrathea
At what water level is everything accessible? Sep 14, 2017
David Nonya
Washington, District of Col…
David Nonya   Washington, District of Col…
From what I've been told 1625' is the mark. I was there last weekend when the army corps site said 1622' and it was accessible. He's the water level link.

lrh-wc.usace.army.mil/wm/?b…


Also, I know the odds are low, but I was deep water soloing with my go pro black this summer and it snapped off the bracket and sank. Now that the water levels have dropped, if anyone finds it could you please let me know. I'm glad to pay you a finders fee. Oct 26, 2017
Sam Willis
Cincinnati
Sam Willis   Cincinnati
If anyone has found a green .75 C4 cam please text me. It was placed at the bottom of Jowiki in the obvious crack line as practice and I think we forgot it.
513-502-1335 Thank you! Oct 16, 2018 · Temporary Report