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Routes in Whippoorwill

28 Weeks Later S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
After Forever S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aimee's Jugs S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Back to the Known S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Bender S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blaze Got a New Job S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blimey S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bongo S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Charlotte Corner T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ching, Chang, Chong S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Cowboy Love T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Cowboy in the Dirt S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crescent Corner T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don Miron S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
East Meck Shoot Out T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fishbone S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Flight of the Kiwi T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flounder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Gimme a Clown S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hat Change S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Holy Mackerel T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
How Could Hell Be Any Worse? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jason and the Arguenots S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Java T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jay's Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Johnny Bravo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jowiki S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Latch Key Kids S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Logos S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Masuko S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Max Payne S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Mojo Jojo Crack T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Morse Code S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mythos T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nonameyet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Pat-Agonia S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pondless S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rehab S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
SIN S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Six Gun Serenade T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Straight Outta Lockmont S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tacos Pescados S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unholy Mackerel T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R
Unnamed crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Wafer S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Waverly S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Wendy's Jugs S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Where have All the Gay Cowboys Gone? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Whinerlamer S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Rudaw
Page Views: 151 total, 4/month
Shared By: Joseph DeGaetano on Dec 16, 2014
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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Writing in chalk Details

Description

This route starts on the same wall as Blimey. Go past Jason and the Argonauts and cross the creek to find the vertical wall with 5 sport climbs.

Pondless is a sandbag and be ready for techy 11+ climbing. Strong fingers, high steps, and techy footwork will help you reach the anchors on this.

I talked to Rudaw about the grade on this route after i climbed it, not knowing the grade and guessing it to be around 11d/12a. He said 11b. It's funny because I mentioned to my friends (both strong climbers who were having trouble with the crux) that this would be 5.11- in some places in the country but it would be more consistent with 11c/d at the New. Rudaw is all over the place with his grading (perhaps he comes from a background where grades are way stiffer, maybe techy climbing is just that technical and not "that" hard, some of his routes clearly don't go direct through the bolt line and circumnavigate cruxes), but when you come across a good Rudaw route, you appreciate the job he has done opening new routes in our region.

Get on this thing (and all Rudaw routes) and be ready for anything regardless of the grade.

Location

Just right of Blimey

Protection

bolts and bolted anchor

Photos

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